Spuds A’Plenty in Your Own Backyard

Sometimes nothing hits the spot like a good baked potato, especially when pairing it with a nice New York Strip or other fine cut from your local butcher. While you may not have the room to house, feed, and raise your own cow for the carnivorous part of said meal, you can grow the starchy part in the warm confines of your backyard, no matter how small.

The first thing to be accomplished is deciding what type(s) of potatoes you would like to grow. Small reds, deep blues, small fingerlings, or everyday russets/baking potatoes all are excellent choices. It might be interesting and exciting to have a crop that is not heavily represented at your local grocer, so take your time and choose wisely. Acquire the appropriate seeds from your local lawn and garden supplier and begin scouting out your area for planting. It is good to start your planting in the early spring, about the time the soil becomes most fertile and workable. If you have a tiller, it would be most helpful in turning the soil over, but a simple shovel, pitchfork, hoe, and a strong back can do the job nicely. Work the soil fully, turning it over again and again, allowing the precious oxygen to circulate and nutrients to be evenly spread throughout. Using organic soil enhancers from your local gardening shop can help your soil achieve a more fertile state, so incorporate it deeply within the soil as well. Straight manure is not advisable, because it is a leading cause of scab, a disease found in growing potatoes. Add water from your garden hose reel sparingly, you do not want to waterlog the soil your potatoes are in because it can cause potato rot. Before planting your seeds, you need to let them begin sprouting in a dry, warm spot at about 60 to 70 degrees for several weeks. Making sure that your potatoes have sprouted, remove them from the warm area and plant them in a mound of dirt and cover just the seed part with soil leaving a protective mound around each potato seedling. When the plants have grown to about six or seven inches in height, you will be able to add more dirt around the plant. Make sure to check the soil often and water your budding spuds when necessary.

With attentive care, the right amount of water, and sunshine, your potatoes will be ready for your dinner table before you know it!

About the author: Jon Bassfarm is an Internet content writer who enjoys researching and writing about many subjects including garden hose reel, landscaping, and much more.

The Show of Colors in Autumn

The brilliant colors about the island where I live in New England are just amazing this fall. The peak of color is just about to happen. The deciduous trees that mix in the background with the evergreens are coming to the foreground with their fiery brilliance. Many "leaf-peepers" (those who travel to see fall foliage) visit where I live to catch nature’s show of color.

Fall foliage is enhanced as daylight hours lessen and the nights grow cold. This transformation occurs when conditions are just right, and as conditions vary from year to year, so does the peak season for viewing fall foliage.

Ever wonder what actually causes the leaves to turn red, orange, yellow, and golden? A number of hormonal changes take place in the leaves as we get into shorter days and longer nights. The connection between the leaf and stem changes with the temperature change, choking the movement of nutrients and moisture to the leaves. As the green color fades, the leaf exposes a yellow color underneath. The rest of the hues in the palette of fall foliage colors are encouraged by the production of sugars. These sugars are not in the leaf when it forms, but are generated in the late summer into fall. Shades of brilliant orange and deep red can result depending on the tree. The leaves of maple trees from which we get sugary maple syrup, turn red in the fall.

The amount of water tree leaves have received throughout the year determines how long a leaf will remain green. Rain showers, hot days and dry spells during the summer all play a part in the show of color. Many leaves can dry up and turn brown long before autumn, if the summer has been particularly dry.

For several consecutive years, a research plant physiologist with the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Forest Service has studied the impact of stress on the change of leaf color. You may have noticed some years that the color red has been prevalent mainly in the woodland palette. That is probably the result of the stress of drought that year on the trees. According to his findings, in drought-stricken years, "leaf peepers" will see more red, and the color will show earlier. His studies indicate the color of fall foliage tends to be more brilliant as the result of dry summer months. Essentially, trees create the red color as the weather warrants. It can vary from year to year when the green and yellow pigments are consistent and hardly change from year to year.

If you are choosing your trees by their fall impact on your landscape, consider the following: silver maples show yellow in the fall; sugar maples will vary in shades of red, bright to dark; the birch family shows yellow hues; flowering dogwoods will turn red, and the oak family will exhibit from orange russet to yellow-brown.

Dayelle Swensson is an avid writer for the web on a number of topics. Having gardened herself for many years, she is able to advise others about a variety of things including gardening tips, lawn and tree care, watering, hose reel and keeping your home garden looking good and healthy.

Growing Your Own Juicy Tomatoes

With the health scare at restaurants and retailers earlier this year concerning tomatoes, you might be thinking, why am I not growing my own to enjoy? Good question. Tomatoes are quite easy to grow in many areas of the United States, they are a beautiful addition to any garden, and biting into a juicy tomato, bursting with flavor and goodness, is its own reward for the diligent attention it received while growing. You’ll also notice the taste difference between your backyard garden variety and the store-bought product; yours will taste unbelievably more delicious and satisfying than you had ever imagined they would!

In most areas of the U.S., it is best to start your planting in late spring, unless planting indoors, when temperatures are securely 65 degrees Fahrenheit or above, the necessary temperature for successful germination. Make sure that the spot you pick gets adequate sunlight, around six hours each and every day. Ensuring that the soil is warm and kept nice and moist, as seeds that are planted in this hospitable environment should start to sprout within only a few days. When planting from starts acquired from your local garden store instead of seeds, the same conditions apply, though it is often easier for starts to take hold and prosper sooner than seeds since they are farther along already.

As your plants sprout or your starts take hold, you must make sure to water them adequately, but never too much. Simply make sure to use the H2O from your garden hose reel wisely, allowing the plants to be moist, but not swimming. Plant fertilizer can be most helpful as it can help contribute to whatever nutrients your soil inherently contains, amplifying and augmenting these nutrients for more successful growth and heartiness.

Though it is hard to resist picking your tomatoes early, you must wait until they achieve a deep red color, ensuring they are at their ripest condition. You will be so glad you did as you slice into that very first one. Whether you enjoy it in a deliciously healthy salad, paired with other healthy vegetables from your garden, on a sandwich with your favorite spread, or simply biting into it in your backyard, the reward of growing your own healthy tomatoes will be so deliciously satisfying, you will undoubtedly repeat the process year after year, forever forsaking your local grocer for your beautiful, backyard bounty.

About the author: Jon Bassfarm is an Internet content writer who enjoys researching and writing about many subjects including garden hose reel, landscaping, and much more.

Environmentally Concerned Fall Garden Clean Up

Fall tells us it is time to prepare our garden for the winter. Fearing of disease and insect problems appearing the next spring, many gardeners wonder if they should just cut down and clear out the summer growth.

It really depends on what kind of garden you are growing whether or not you will need to do a lot of cleaning or just a little at the end of the blooming season. What also comes into play is how concerned you and your neighbors are about the neatness of your property. Your style of growing, whether it be annuals, tropical plants, vegetables, wildflowers, evergreens, woods or a plain lawn will set the amount of time and work necessary.

As more people learn the principles, (IPM) is gaining in popularity as an alternative approach to gardening. You can actually do less in your yard and let nature work for you. Doing a big fall clean up may not be as necessary when you consider the integrated pest management way of gardening.

It is best, if you can to leave some perennials standing. Besides it's fun to watch finches picking out the seeds on echinacea or more commonly called coneflowers. Sunflowers, liatris or butterfly flower and other flowers that go to seed will provide food for wildlife. Watching birds can give you hours of enjoyment in the winter garden. Leaving flowers and stalks through the winter will also provide homes for wintering insects that provide food for birds. An environmentally friendly garden will always have lots of bugs in it. Instead of cleaning up all seed heads, leave them giving some winter protection for birds and insects in your garden. Milkweed pods provide seeds for food and flycatchers, vireos, wrens, some warblers, sparrows, orioles and finches will use the floss on the milkweed for nesting. Think of this as not a punishment for laziness but a reward for allowing nature to take care of itself. In spring, migrating birds will come looking for those insects attracted by the left pods and visit the garden that provides food. Plus if you are a bird watcher, this gives you even more pleasure.

When you feel you must cut down perennial stalks, chop them into about six-inch lengths and pile them in the garden as mulch with fall leaves. You would be amazed at how many wintering wildlife seek cover under the stick piles. give cover for wildlife, including wintering butterflies like the Mourning cloak. This kind of mulch can be worked into your garden in the spring that will eventually make your soil much richer producing healthier plants, adding important organic material.

It is important to cut down and discard (as in remove) diseased plant material. This is a hygienic step and make sure not to toss it in your compost pile. To assure the best conditions for next year's crop, vegetable gardens will need to be cleared of old growth. Prune back plants and shrubs with seed heads that start too many unwanted new plants. Tropical plants require a lot of care in this non-tropical area. Plants that grow naturally here are a much better investment all the way around. Look for plants native to your back yard and they'll flourish in the your natural soil, temperature range and the amount of water available. Native plants will look beautiful with less time spent fussing with them. This will leave you with more time to do the other fall gardening chores like cleaning, sharpening and oiling your garden tools.

Dayelle Swensson is an avid writer for the web on a number of topics. Having gardened herself for many years, she is able to advise others about a variety of things including gardening tips, lawn and tree care, watering, hose reel and keeping your home garden looking good and healthy.

Planting Bulbs

Few plants offer as much spectacular beauty as spring-flowering bulbs. It is wise to choose to buy your bulbs early (before planting time) if buying them from a garden center or plant nursery because the supplies dwindle quickly. So plan first and then go to buy with your plan in mind to make adjustments easier, if necessary. Since bulbs are planted in the fall, you will have to store your bulbs in a cool, dry place beforehand. Garages or dry basements are good. Make sure they won’t deteriorate before getting them into the ground. Generally, they should not be stored for longer than two weeks, otherwise you run the risk of them rotting.

You can also choose your selection from dozens of catalogs online and they store the bulbs for you sending them to you when it is appropriate to be planting the bulbs. They also usually offer more choices from more varieties than the local nurseries can offer you. Once the bulbs arrive, examine them closely. Make sure they are firm and free of any signs of rot or disease. Do not worry too much about the occasional small patch of blue or green surface mold as long as the bulb is firm to the touch. To promote root growth, plant your mail-order bulbs immediately. This is especially important for cold-climate areas. Open the bags and boxes to allow air to circulate around the bulbs if your schedule doesn’t permit you to plant them right away. The sooner you get them in the ground before frost hits, the better. The roots can start making their home in the soil before winter sets in.

A planting location ideal for spring-blooming bulbs receives at least six hours of sunlight a day. Bulbs such as hyacinths or Spanish bluebells are exceptions to this rule preferring the shade. Since some early blooming bulbs such as crocus will flourish beneath deciduous trees, go ahead and plant them there if you like because they bloom long before the trees fill in with leaves.

Once you have a plan in place you can start planting. You will need a mattock or bulb digging tool. Stab it into the ground and manipulate the soil around the hole to place the bulb roots down into the hole with the pointy part of the bulb sticking up. Follow the instructions for planting the bulb that usually come with it. Different bulbs need to be planted at different depths. The general rule is the bulb should be set in the ground three to four times deep as the bulb is tall. To ensure the success of the bulb, use a small ruler to check the proper planting depth.

There are many ways to show your blooming bulbs. To create visual interest, consider following an irregular shaped pattern. You can create a cascading effect by planting the taller bulbs in the back of the flower bed and the shorter flowers in front. For a natural look, group bulbs closer together in the center and gradually space them apart as you move towards the outer edges of the pattern. Whatever your plan, remember if you do not like how you planted when they come up and flower, you can always dig them up and replant them after they have bloomed. Bulbs are forgiving. They also are prolific and you will need to split and replant in around three years. Most importantly, have fun with the patterns you can create.

Dayelle Swensson is an avid writer for the web on a number of topics. Having gardened herself for many years, she is able to advise others about a variety of things including gardening tips, lawn and tree care, watering, hose reel and keeping your home garden looking good and healthy.

Moving an Established Bush Successfully

If you’ve just moved into a new house or perhaps just want to change up your property’s landscape a bit due to new acquisitions, there may come a time when you would like to transplant established bushes and other foliage to other parts of your yard. Moving an established plant can be extremely tricky depending on the age of the plant, the extensiveness of its entrenchment, and the size of its root ball. Before even entertaining the idea of a move, it is essential to make sure the proposed new location will be as advantageous (or more advantageous) for the health and prosperous growth as the cozy spot it will be leaving. Make sure there is ample shade, ample sunlight, that adequate room exists for the plant as it grows, and that the new spot possesses the most hospitable soil to the particular plant’s liking. Once these issues have been resolved, it is time to get ready for the move itself.

The largest concern of moving an established planting is taking care not to damage too many of the feeder roots that do most of the nutrient, water, and oxygen absorption necessary for plant health. Depending on the size of the bush, plan on digging around the bottom quite a bit larger in order to help preserve the most of the feeder roots as possible, as this will help the bush adapt nicely and quickly to its new location. To be safe, it is best to dig around the circumference of the entire plant; depending on its size this could be three feet in diameter, so bring your muscles (or someone else’s) with you! With this increased hole size, you have a better chance of protecting the entire root ball, so carefully dig, observing the root ball as it is becomes visible. Once the entire root ball is exposed, water it thoroughly with water from your garden hose reel to help ensure it remains intact while you continue to dig around it. Once the root ball is completely uncovered, wrap it gingerly with burlap to ensure cohesion before trying to lift plant and ball to transport it to the new site. When lifting the entire plant into your awaiting wheelbarrow, it is essential to cradle the root ball carefully, ensuring it does not crack or break as this can surely mean death for your precious plant.

Making sure the new hole is the same size as the one your plant has just vacated, settle your plant within and replace the soil moved for its making. Water it thoroughly immediately and mulch the surrounding area. It is essential to be extremely diligent with weekly waterings throughout this crucial first year post-transplant. Check the soil often to make sure you are applying enough water to satisfy new growth. Your bush will soon take hold to its new environment, and adjust accordingly so you are able to enjoy it for many years to come.

About the author: Jon Bassfarm is an Internet content writer who enjoys researching and writing about many subjects including garden hose reel, landscaping, and much more.

Prune Your Vines to Stimulate Growth

While climbing vines do their part to add layers and depth to the landscape of your yard and garden, they do demand attention at certain times of the year, to keep them growing healthily and vigorously. Whether your vines are climbing an old fence, the handrails of your front porch, or an erected trellis in a beautiful garden bower, certain sections of these vines must be snipped and pruned in order for the healthy areas to continue with their growth, beautifying your garden space.

Make sure you have the proper tools on hand before you begin pruning your climbers. Pruning clippers/shears must be extra sharp in order to do their job. Dull shears can actually damage your vines by leaving jagged cuts or splintering branches instead of providing the cleanest of cuts. Dully cut branches are not only less attractive, while these cuts are healing, they are easy prey for insect infestation or disease. Late winter, after the last snow and frost, is the best time to prune many of your hardiest vines such as various types of clematis, grapes, wisteria, and roses. If you are planning on tackling your roses, of course a pair of thick gloves should be on your shopping list as well.

With all climbers, you need to prune and cut back the dead or dying areas in order to keep new growth growing. If this is your first attempt at pruning, you should not be afraid. Hardy climbers such as your grapes can take beginners’ mistakes and still rebound, forming new growth come spring. You will get your exercise pruning your grapes back as experts suggest that nearly 90% of the plant should be cut away in late winter to stimulate the new growth of the upcoming season, so pace yourself! Make deliberate cuts with each attempt, taking care to leave the healthiest buds alone, cutting right above them on your wisteria or clematis. Thinning these plants of the dead branches and ratty stragglers can help them retain their shape while also increasing your chances for more blooms in the spring, so be diligent. As always, if any branches or buds appear infected with a pest or disease, cut them back immediately in hopes of stopping the unsightly infections from spreading throughout the plant. When pruning, you can think of yourself as doctor and stylist in one, making sure your plants remain healthy while shaping and training them as you desire.

Most vines and hardy climbers require a pruning session only once a year in order to maintain their growth throughout the seasons. As always, it is extremely helpful to mulch and fertilize your valued plants, especially after pruning in order to quickly supply the new growth with the necessary nutrients. An attentive showering of water from your garden hose reel after mulching provides the required water, motivating growth in burgeoning sections. With this once a year attention, you can make sure your vines grow their best and beautify your lawn and garden year round.

About the author: Jon Bassfarm is an Internet content writer who enjoys researching and writing about many subjects including garden hose reel, landscaping, and much more.

Plants to Plant Now

When we think of our vegetable garden in the Fall we usually think of harvesting it. Surprisingly though, there are a few edibles planted now that will be ready to eat in only a few weeks. They thrive in the cooler temperatures happening around now.

Spinach can be planted in rows or just broadcast the seed which takes less work. It does well in cool soil, so it's a great fall-planting option. If you are working in an established bed, you don't need to till the soil. Actually, it is probably best not to till the soil before planting because it can bring up weeds growing under the soil.

First, use a rake to break up any clumps and smooth out the surface of your soil. Since spinach has a shallow root system, you do not have to make furrows for the seeds very deep or rough up the area very deeply if you choose to broadcast the seeds. When you broadcast the seeds, just grab a handful of seeds and gently toss them onto the planting area.

Then using a rake, gently cover the seeds. Next water the area with a light mist or spray. Don't let your soil dry out in between waterings. The spinach roots develop best when watered properly. Spinach growth starts slowly and then accelerates during the final three weeks before harvest.

In just a couple of weeks the spinach will have small shoots, and it can be harvested in about four to six weeks as small tender tasty leaves. Do not harvest the whole plant—roots included. Spinach can fall dormant through the winter and come alive again in the spring—a nice surprise.

Another good cool-season crop is garlic. It grows as a bulb underground and will be ready to harvest in June. Each clove you plant (the seed) will produce a whole bulb of garlic. Start with a clove from a farmer’s market rather than one bought at the grocery store. It will produce larger tastier bulbs. The grocery store garlic might also be treated to not sprout.

Before planting add compost material to the soil. Garlic will be in the ground growing for about nine months, so it needs lots of nutrients to keep growing. Plant the cloves in rows a foot apart four to six inches apart within the rows for good bulb size and good yield.

Another plant which is beautiful and edible that can also be planted for a late fall harvest is the pansy. Pansies like rich, well-drained soil and sunny conditions. Pansies are sold as transplants in the fall. Plant them deep enough so that the root ball is covered and the plant is above ground. Do not fertilize these pansy transplants in the fall because it makes them more susceptible to damage. When the flowers are picked throughout the winter season to use in salads and for decorative effects on cakes, they will continue to bloom, even when there is snow on the ground.

Dayelle Swensson is an avid writer for the web on a number of topics. Having gardened herself for many years, she is able to advise others about a variety of things including gardening tips, lawn and tree care, watering, hose reel and keeping your home garden looking good and healthy.

Caring for Your Compost So it Benefits Your Lawn

Keeping your lawn its greenest and continuously growing at its peak potential doesn’t happen overnight. Diligent waterings from your hose reel are excellent, but your lawn may demand more, depending on the quality and type of soil that’s underneath the surface. Composting is an excellent and environmentally friendly option, but you must remember, your compost need its own attention as well, so that it can generate all the growth-giving properties that you desire.

The location of your compost pile or bin is something that should be considered. It should be placed appropriately in your lawn so that any runoff that may occur can be beneficial in and of itself. If your lawn is sloping, make sure to place your compost pile or bin at or near the top of the slope so its runoff can be utilized advantageously. A bin to store your compost is not necessary, but is helpful in keeping it contained, though a simple pile will do the job as well.

The materials you place in your compost pile should be organic, that is, plant-based materials. Meat waste can be dangerous as it can attract local wildlife. It is best to use lawn clippings, leaves, vines, and other plant refuse, as well as kitchen waste such as vegetable peelings, coffee grounds, eggshells, and the like. The more finely crushed all of these items are, the more quickly they can be broken down within your compost pile, and their advantageous nutrients applied to your lawn.

After your pile location is established and beginning organic materials assembled, heap them together with a little soil and manure to get the nitrogen and microorganisms necessary to start the process. Rather than a mountainous pile with the middle protruding upwards, attempt to let the outer parts of your pile be highest, allowing for water seepage from the outside in. Water from your hose reel should now be applied, making the pile moist, but not overly wet. Within only a few days, the microorganisms will begin doing their job and, combined with the nitrogen and plant material, the pile will begin to heat up. If heat is not being generated, fresh lawn clippings and water should be applied to add more nitrogen and hydration. If an ammonia smell is detected, use your pitchfork to aerate the pile somewhat to allow for equal oxygen distribution. The pile should be turned at least once a month to continue the process of decomposition, and if the materials involved are finely crushed, application of viable compost to your lawn can happen in as little as two months.

Composting is an easy way to add valuable nutrients to your lawn while doing your part as well to help keep the size of your city or county’s landfills from unnecessarily growing.

About the author: Jon Bassfarm is an Internet content writer who enjoys researching and writing about many subjects including hose reel and landscaping.

Composting Benefits for Your Lawn and Garden

So your neighbor’s garden is more fruitful, beautiful, and aggressively growing than yours: why do you think? He/she is seemingly not out and working in it anymore than you are, you haven’t seen a hired gardening expert milling about, but you have noticed a sweet smell coming from next door that you don’t seem to recognize. You could get the answer quickly by asking your neighbor what he or she is doing that you’re not, but your pride won’t let you ask. Dollars to donuts, your neighbor is using compost to help enrich the fertility of the growing beds, whether commercially produced, or produced in his back yard as well. You would do well to attempt the same, and the benefits to your garden will be overwhelming!

Compost can be a valuable resource to enriching your lawn’s landscape and your garden’s growth, and if you make your own compost, the cost is minimal, if anything. Your lawn clippings, your raked leaves, clipped branches, and yes, even kitchen food scraps, should be saved, cultivated, and then applied to your lawn and garden. The use of compost can enrich and improve the physical structure of the soil itself. For clay-like soiled lawns, working in compost can help reduce the density of the soil, allowing it to accept and use the water applied by your hose reel; the soil will become more porous and thus, more easily hydrated while improving its ability to hold and use the water applied. For sandy lawns, the addition of compost can deter erosion by adhering within the soil, allowing the soil to hold together in its form, reducing the risk of moving in heavy winds or rains. By adding compost to your soil, waterings can be less frequent, allowing for savings on your water bill, because compost has its own hydrating properties when it is applied to the soil in your lawn or garden.

Constructing a compost bin can be easy or difficult, depending on design and complexity. Old slats from a wooden fence can be utilized in construction, chicken wire is often used, and many counties even have plastic composting bins available for purchase, often through their park’s departments. The size of your bin should be manageable without being too small (less than 27 cubic feet) to hold sufficient heat nor too large (over 125 cubic feet) for sufficient oxygenation.

Composting can add exponentially to the successful growth of your lawn and garden. With a little elbow grease and determination, your neighbor will be asking how your garden grows so well in no time!

About the author: Jon Bassfarm is an Internet content writer who enjoys researching and writing about many subjects including hose reel and landscaping.

What Degree of Shade Falls on Your Plants?

Varying from deep shade to partial sun with many gradations, shade can be a subjective term. Plants and shrubs that do well in the shade need to be planted in the best spots of your garden to work. Part of garden planning is to study your yard and the movements of the sun upon it before making your plant and shrub selections.

Use the levels of shade described below to help you make the best selections for your shaded areas. It is important to keep in mind where you live. If a plant specifies doing well with morning shade and afternoon sun, this plant will do well very differently in northern areas compared to southern areas. The northern areas are more forgiving than the deep south where the afternoon sun can still be very hot. Your own experience with particular plants in your area will be a deciding factor. So treat these descriptions of shade as a general guide only.

Examples of deep shade are beneath evergreen trees and under decks. Deep shade is usually also a dry shade depending on the density of the trees’ needles or the distance between the planks on the deck flooring. Obviously, this is the most difficult shade site to grow plants.

Full shade is found beneath mature deciduous trees such as oaks and maples. It can also be a dry shade especially under maples depending on how many branches and leaves the tree bears when it is full. Woodland plants, in particular like spring sun and summer shade. Summer shade is provided by deciduous trees as they leaf out.

High shade is the shade beneath trees that have been limbed up exposing a rather tall trunk. This is a very desirable type of shade.

Dappled or filtered shade is a continuous shifting pattern of shade. This degree of shade is most ideal for growing shade plants. The shade here is constantly changing which is a good thing.

Light or partial shade receives full shade for at least two to three hours during mid-day. Full sun plants may still do well in such a situation since they get about five to six hours of sun during the day. Full sun is five or more hours of direct sun.

Half shade is depicted by shade falling on your plants for four to five hours with some periods of full sun and of full shade. Half shade is usually more sun than most shade plants can tolerate.

Northern exposure means that the plants or shrubs planted on the north side of walls, fences or a row of solid trees get no direct sun even though the site is open to the sky. Morning sun provides light but without the constant baking of the early afternoon sun. Remember that where you are located in latitude affects the degree of morning and afternoon sun.

Whatever your selection of shade plants ends up being, they do all the better with the proper amount of watering. To make the task of watering easier, it is best to keep your hose on a garden hose reel.

Dayelle Swensson is an avid writer for the web on a number of topics. Having gardened herself for many years, she is able to advise others about a variety of things including gardening tips, lawn and tree care, watering, hose reel and keeping your home garden looking good and healthy.

How to Keep Your Perennial Garden Looking Great Season after Season

Now that you have planned, selected and planted your garden and you feel that it is looking the way you want it, it is up to you to maintain it so that it keeps on looking great season after season. Using the simple strategy outlined here, the maintenance task needs not to become overwhelming.

The best way to retain moisture in your perennial beds is to apply mulch. A layer of organic mulch will also reduce the number of sprouting weeds. Mulch can make the garden beds look more tidy and defined. Typically a new layer of mulch, even just a layer of screened compost, is applied in the spring. Organic mulches, such as pine needles, cocoa hulls, shredded bark, or compost break down quickly and enhance the soil over time. The smaller the pieces in the mulch, the more quickly the enriched nutrients in it are absorbed into the soil as it decomposes.

What is known as deadheading does not have to be a tedious job. Remove faded flowers and leaves as they wilt, or every few days. Get into the practice of walking through your garden before you go to work in the morning or after you come home in the early evening and snipping the unwanted old flowers and leaves. Keeping it tidy everyday can prevent it from being a dreaded chore later on. Hang a small basket on your arm for old flowers, leaves, and weeds, and discard them on your way out of the garden.

Perennial plants will grow and spread a bit every year, depending on the perennial, some can be invasive. It is important to maintain crowd control. Older growth will become weaker when crowded in an area, and may stop blooming completely. Dig and divide. Some aggressive plants may need to be divided more often, and others may not need it for five years or more. Keep the plants looking their best by dividing perennials every three or four years. Replant the divisions elsewhere in your yard or share them with friends.

Some annuals and perennials can create seeds that may grow the next year, unless you have planted sterile hybrids. It is best to suppress this seed growth. Annuals have many viable seeds that can quickly take over a garden or yard if not kept under control. A way to prevent this from happening is to deadhead before seeds mature. If seeds are allowed to mature, thinning out the new seedlings in the spring before they crowd each other out will help so that the entire garden doesn’t have to struggle.

Most importantly to make your perennial garden looking great season after season is to keep it watered well. Make sure the soil has the right amount of moisture. One way to make the task of watering easier is to keep your hose in a hose reel. This prevents kinks in the hose line that can block the flow of water making it frustrating. The maintenance task needs not to become overwhelming.

Dayelle Swensson is an avid writer for the web on a number of topics. Having gardened herself for many years, she is able to advise others about a variety of things including gardening tips, lawn and tree care, watering, hose reel and keeping your home garden looking good and healthy.

What Grows in the Shade

If you want to achieve success in gardening, be careful to choose plants that are adaptable to their surroundings and environment, whether it be Mediterranean climate; bog and water; woodlands or prairies; sunny, partly sunny or full shade. There are more shade plants than you might imagine. Most perennials that bloom in spring, summer and fall do best with the sun beaming down on them at some point to make them flower. But flowers are not necessary to make a landscape intriguing. There are many plants that put on quite a show with texture, form and the many shades of green. When selecting plants for your shady area, consider their foliage and year round interest. If they flower, that is an extra bonus.

Trees, such as flowering dogwood, provide blooms in the early spring and berries in the fall, have attractive bark and offer structural interest in the winter. For attracting wildlife and birds, flowering shrubs such as viburnums offer bloom and berries. Broad-leaf evergreen shrubs like rhododendrons and azaleas, give a week or more of bloom in the spring and their leaves add texture and color all year round. Ferns also are great for texture and they come in a variety of forms and sizes as well. An added interest is the fiddlehead form they start out as in the early spring. A number of these shade-loving plants are evergreen.

If you have trouble growing grass in the shade, consider a moss lawn. Other ground covers for shade are ivy, Pachysandra terminalis and Vinca minor. Winter creeper has a similar growth habit. Ajuga is another useful groundcover with flowers of white, pink and blue and bronze, variegated and mottled green foliage. Lily-of-the-Valley is another possible choice, especially under trees, but may be hard to eliminate if you change your mind. Goutweed, Sweet Woodruff, and Dead Nettle all tend to be invasive, but can be useful because if this, in certain situations.

The evergreen shrub, rhododendrons are well known for blooming in the shade, but many, especially the small-leaved species, can grow in sun as well. In general, the larger the leaves, the more shade is needed. The evergreen azaleas will grow in part shade in warmer zones. Mountain and Sheep Laurel will grow in full shade, but will flower better with some sun. Other broad-leaved evergreens like Andromedas, Boxwood and small-leaved Hollies can be useful in foundation plantings and in hedges. Dwarf forms of Cypress and Hemlock, needled evergreens, are useful in the rock gardens with light to nearly full shade. The Yews are useful too, of course, but are often overused. Again, it is important to check with your local nursery to see which shrubs do best in your area for your success. The ones listed above are not hardy to all zones.

For the most part, shade-loving plants will need less watering. But some shaded areas can be dry and should be watered regularly. Just because the sun doesn’t beat down on the area evaporating the moisture, doesn’t mean the soil doesn’t need replenishing from time to time. The best way to get your hose to these shaded areas is with a garden hose reel.

Dayelle Swensson is an avid writer for the web on a number of topics. Having gardened herself for many years, she is able to advise others about a variety of things including gardening tips, lawn and tree care, watering, hose reel and keeping your home garden looking good and healthy.

Getting Rid of the Pesky Slugs that Terrorize Your Garden Organically, Without Harming Them

Have you ever gone out to admire your beautifully growing garden and found yourself horrified by holes covering the green leaves and a silver, tell-tale trail left behind? Of course, the silvery trail lets you know that your garden has been violated by the slimiest, most disgusting, plant-damaging pests around, slugs, and they will undoubtedly return now that they have found your amply set green table of garden foliage goodness to feed their repulsive bellies with. The question is, of course, how do you make sure the next visit is their very last? You are certainly not growing your beautiful garden for their benefit and need to make sure they do not continue wrecking havoc on your lovely green space.

Slugs do their worst at night, because their slimy wet skin is delicate and sunlight can dry them out easily. Because of this, waterings in the late evening, though assuring penetration into your garden by the water, are a “no-no” when it comes to slugs as it only attracts them more. Also, it is better that you attach a “soaker” hose nozzle to your hose reel as it allows you to have better control of exactly where your water goes. In this manner, you can be sure not to leave little puddles of water in unnoticed places where slugs tend to congregate.

While you could choose from quite a few chemical solutions available on the market, it is more environmentally conscious to try the organic routes initially. It is good to remember the natural predators of slugs, for they are many. Birds, salamanders, and frogs love to have their fill of slugs for dinner. Birds are easily attracted to your garden; spread some nice birdseed to attract the local starling population. They will be more than happy to pick off those pesky fellers, one by one. If the birdies don’t do the trick, keep in mind just how delicate those slimy suckers’ bellies are. Slugs try and protect their vulnerable undersides out of necessity. Try littering the area surrounding your flowerbeds and gardens with gritty substances like sand or eggshells. Slugs will turn the other way rather than cross a line that could puncture their fragile epidermis. This will deter them, forcing them to head to the neighbors’ yards in search of sustenance.

By following these few suggestions, it will be possible to protect your garden, organically, from the belly-bound predators, allowing your flowers and plants to prosper, beautifying your home and yard all season long.

About the author: Jon Bassfarm is an Internet content writer who enjoys researching and writing about many subjects including hose reel and landscaping.

Bare Spots in Your Lawn Are Easily Fixed

While some people truly have the greenest, most lushly growing lawns around, purely for looking at and admiring, if you’re like me, you like to enjoy your lawn by laying on it, tossing the football around, playing with the kids, or even fetch with the family dog. Unfortunately for your lawn, excessive playing and foot traffic can wreck havoc, causing bare spots from repeated use. You’ll be happy to learn, however, that repairing these bare spots is a manageable task that is achievable without too terribly much effort.

Whether your lawn is damaged by compaction from your children or dog, too little water, or insects, the coming fall season is an excellent time to begin reparation. It is essential to repair the bare spots, not only for aesthetic reasons, but to make sure they do not increase in size and become more susceptible to weed infestation or disease. Weeds have no trouble adapting, and will be firmly entrenched if not held at bay. You want to match your new grass with the grass that is already growing on your lawn and have those types of seeds on hand, purchased from your local lawn and garden shop. It is first necessary to remove the affected areas with a shovel and cover the spot with new, fresh, fertile soil. Following the directions on the label of your seeds, spread your seeds, covering them with either straw or moss to protect from rain and watering from your hose reel. Press the soil down lightly, do not press the seeds deeply or bury them deeply in the soil. Fertilizer is a good idea to apply over the area, to encourage quick and steady growth, from the first watering. The straw or moss will help hold in the important H2O of these first watering sessions. Make sure your hose is set on a fine mist, in order to keep the straw in place, and ensure the soil is moist, above all, not drenched. Grass will spring up within a few weeks of planting, but make sure not to walk, play or mow the area until around three inches of growth is visible. Once this happens, due to your fastidious tending and ample, but not excessive waterings, you can treat this new patch of grass like any other.

This method can be used again and again until your entire lawn is repaired, vigorously growing, and gorgeously green!

About the author: Jon Bassfarm is an Internet content writer who enjoys researching and writing about many subjects including hose reel and landscaping. Please visit www.roboreel.com for more information.