The Beauty of Growing Basil

Basil is possibly one of many people's favorite herbs. Not only is it fun to grow, it has so many uses. As a member of the mint family, Basil is added to salads, sandwiches, and dishes. With its many varieties including Sweet Basil, Lemon Basil, Chocolate Basil, Lime Basil and Cinnamon Basil, those who love the taste of Basil have many tastes to choose from.

When growing Basil, whether indoors or outdoors, the first step is to make sure you have adequate drainage. If putting Basil in a pot, line it with coarse gravel. If growing outside, make sure your soil is well dug, leaving the ground beneath the plant loose and fluffy. Placing compost beneath your plant can help with this.

Basil loves sunlight, at least six to eight hours of it a day. If you are planting this herb inside, be sure to place it in a windowsill. Not only does Basil like sunlight, it doesn't like the cold, so if you are planting outside, try and avoid spots where cold winds come through. With that said, one shouldn't even plant Basil until daytime temperatures remain in the 70s F. and night temperatures are above 50 degrees F. Seeds can be started indoors 3-4 weeks before last spring frost date. Unlike many Mediterranean herbs, Basil likes a somewhat rich soil and doesn’t like to be kept dry.

Keep your basil plants at least ten inches apart, if placing outside, Basil likes to bush out. You can thin your plants by harvesting them simply in pinching the tops off once the plants reach about 6" in height. If you don’t pinch or harvest, the plants will grow tall and gangly, with few leaves and will bolt to seed. You can continue harvesting as long as there are leaves left on the plant to keep it going.

With outside plants, try and keep weeds away from your Basil plants. You can add organic mulch around the plant to help steer weeds away - the compost will also help your plant retain moisture.

If growing Basil in containers or indoor pots then add a small amount of fertilizer every month or so. Be sure to maintain the moisture level on your Basil if grown indoors. When watering, add to the base rather than pouring water over its leaves and stems.

Basil will put out flowers if you are not cultivating it often. Be sure to pinch out any flowers that appear as this will help preserve the flavor and promote more leaf growth. Simply picking a few leaves off here and there as needed will also keep your Basil producing for you. If you are saying, I don't eat Basil that often, you can harvest the Basil for future use. Basil can be used fresh or dried. To dry Basil, cut the stems at soil level and dry them in a dehydrator or hang bunches of stems up to air dry in a warm room, this should take about a week. Once the leaves are dried you can remove them from the stems and then store them in a dry airtight container for up to 12 months.


If using your Basil fresh, harvest the most vibrant green leaves that do not have dark spots or decay. You can layer your Basil leaves in damp paper towels and place them inside a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to four days. For Basil with stalks attached, place in a glass of water and cover with a plastic bag secured to the glass. Store in the refrigerator, changing water daily, and use within a week. Do not wash the leaves until you are ready to use them.

Another option is to put whole or chopped fresh leaves in an ice cube tray and cover with water or broth before freezing. Once frozen, pop the cubes out into an airtight bag. Use the cubes in soups, stews or sauces.

Basil is one of those diverse plants that not only spices up your dishes but just smells good to grow, attracts bees and is pleasant in appearances. Playing with its varieties just adds to the enjoyment of growing basil. If you haven't tried your hand at growing Basil, maybe it is about time to do so.

About the Author: Pamela Ravenwood is a freelance writer, journalist, and writing coach who lives in the desert. In addition to spending her days writing, she also loves to tend to her organic garden where she grows as much of her own food as possible. In this, she counts on her cord reel to keep her hoses from drying out from the desert heat.

Growing Vegetables Indoors

Summer is ending and our gardens are wilting. The season of fresh vegetables just goes by too fast. It is time to grind up those stalks and cover the garden with hay for composting. But does this really mean that we are done eating fresh vegetables until next June? Not really! You can grow vegetables indoors using these tips.

There are two ways to start your indoor vegetable garden. One, you can transfer your existing plants from outdoor to indoor pots. Two, you can sprout seeds and plant them. Some plants, like tomato plants, normally need to be staked. But, if you hang a planter for your tomatoes, you don’t necessarily have to stake them. The stalks can simply hang down like vines.

Choose large pots that drain really well. Place rocks in the bottom of each container, then potting soil or top soil mixed with plenty of compost. If your summer garden did well outside, you can use the soil from there to fill your pots. Although, sometimes this soil is depleted of nutrients and should be replenished with compost.

All of your indoor vegetables need to have plenty of sunlight and heat. If possible, put them near a heater vent. They must get as much sunlight as possible, so all plants need to be near a window. You might even consider placing planters in buckets attached to an accordion divider so that all of them have equal sun. You can even move the whole apparatus from one window in the morning to another full sun window in the afternoon. Putting your accordion divider on casters will make the move easier on your back. The vertical garden also eliminates the need to bend over to tend to and harvest vegetables.

Another back saving tip is to roll your vertical garden outside to water. If it’s not too cold, you can roll it out onto the deck or patio and spray it down with the water hose. Use an automatic hose reelto help your back even more.

As the days get shorter, you will have to use a UV lamp to give your vegetables enough light to grow. If you notice your plants doing poorly, increase the amount of heat and/or sun that they are getting every day. Make sure that you are not overwatering, and that you are pruning off any dead or dying sections that may be stealing nutrients from your healthy vegetables.

Having an indoor vegetable garden can be a challenge and can take up a lot of space. But, if you tend to it carefully, you could be rewarded with fresh vegetables year round.

About the Author: Stacy Pessoney is an award winning author and writer of web content for many different web sites. She is well versed in many different areas, including gardening, hose reel, lawn care and landscaping.

Time to Plant Trees

Depending on your area, it may be approaching the time to plant new trees. Taking care of new trees is important because they are so delicate in the first couple of years. Taking care of your trees from the start and throughout their lives can help you increase the shade, oxygen and property value of your home. With a little pruning and routine maintenance, your trees will be healthy and strong.

Before you plant, make a visit to your local nursery. Ask about what types of trees are native to your area and which ones will be best for your purposes. Are you using them for shade? To block out street noise? For privacy from neighbors? Or do you want them simply for their beauty? Whatever your reason, you are sure to find the right tree for your yard.

You may need to bring in a soil sample to determine what type of tree will grow best in your soil. Make sure that you don’t get one that will be too big for the area you have picked out for it. Trees planted too close to homes and power lines have to be later removed. Remember that a tree can sway up to eight feet in a good storm. You may have to check with authorities if you are in a neighborhood. Trees must be planted at least 20 feet away from intersections in most areas. There are also considerations for underground cables, gas lines, water lines, sewer lines, septic tanks and pipes. Additionally, if you put trees near your driveway, you can expect the roots to crack the driveway. Make sure that the trees will not obstruct your view or your neighbors’ views of the road when they are pulling out.

New trees should be heavily watered weekly, more if it is extremely hot weather. Only skip watering if you received a lot of rain. Water absorbs better and doesn’t evaporate as quickly if you water in the late afternoon or night. Water as deeply as you can imagine the roots are. Be careful not to water too much or the roots could rot and kill the tree. Heavy mulching will help keep moisture in the ground and also protect baby trees from being damaged by lawn mowers or people that don’t notice it. Mulch out about 3 feet from the base of a baby tree, five feet for a larger tree.

Watering on schedule is the most important part of helping your new trees survive. You can use an automatic hose reel with a computerized timer to automatically water your trees on time. Good luck with your baby trees!

About the Author: Stacy Pessoney is an award winning author and writer of web content for many different web sites. She is well versed in many different areas, including gardening, hose reel, lawn care and landscaping.

Winterizing Your Greenhouse

Getting into a routine when considering how to winterize your greenhouse can make fall quite exciting. Instead of imagining that your outdoor gardening days are limited, begin to think that your indoor gardening days have just begun.

As with most new beginnings, a healthy cleaning is always a great start. Taking all plants out, particularly on a nice fall day, can allow a thorough cleaning of the greenhouse framing to take place. Areas and structures such as corners, shelving, floors and benches inside the glass can be disinfected. Wash all glazing panels, lightly, as to not eliminate the UV protection from the exterior. Residues and algae left by plants can infect their air source, so a little elbow grease can go a long way. A mild dishwashing soap and warm water can remove most grit, soils and stains. There are also several citrus and organic cleaners that will leave a pleasing new scent lingering while you work.

After all plants are removed from your greenhouse, it may be a great time to take on any construction upgrades or amendments you had in mind. You can also begin to catch sight of the spaces that are not currently being utilized. Get creative with new shelving, hooks, hangers and supply holds. You may be surprised with the joy personal touches can add to your green space.

An empty greenhouse is also a sufficient reminder to check the status of your heater. Cleaning of the fan blades and filter, as well as confirming the accuracy of your thermometer and electrical outlets can prevent more expensive maintenance in the future. In the case of owning your own digital thermometer, replacing your batteries twice a season can prevent a dying heater, without warning.

In an effort to conserve energy, placing foam tapes around doors and windows, as well as oiling ventilation systems can lower electric bills immensely. There are several new insulation systems out there. It may be of great knowledge to the gardener to check these options out, in preparing for this winter, or next.

What if a winter emergency occurs? It is always good to have a backup, battery-operated heater on standby. If this is not an option and electricity fails, placing large buckets of hot water amongst your greens can be of temporary assistance. Also draping newspaper or brown paper bags over all plants while using buckets, can postpone plant health until the problem is resolved. Some gardeners choose to prefabricate a checklist of what to do in the case of a winter emergency; preparing a storage container of all necessary items.

Before taking plants and flowers back into your greenhouse, remember to spray soil and plants with an organic insecticidal soap. Practicing prevention for critters inside your greenhouse may save time, later. Proceed to restore your space creatively and efficiently, and be sure to enjoy!

The process of winterizing your greenhouse doesn't have to be complicated and in truth, a little bit of time and effort may prove itself not only enjoyable but will help you conserve energy and protect your plants in the long run.

About the Author: Pamela Ravenwood is a freelance writer, journalist, and writing coach who lives in the desert. In addition to spending her days writing, she also loves to tend to her organic garden where she grows as much of her own food as possible. In this, she counts on her cord reel to keep her hoses from drying out from the desert heat.

The Preservation and Use of Herbs

The preservation and storage of fresh herbs from your garden is more simple a task than most may presume. For those who do not have access to a greenhouse or indoor garden space, it can become a convenient option during winter months. The quality of the finished product may fluctuate, due to the variety of ways in which to handle your herbs year-round.

With herbs’ natural oils can be contained, they are able to be three to four times as strong as those fresh leaves that are used immediately. Natural fragrances can, in fact, be held within the leaves. Methods varying from microwaving to dehydrating these greens have always been an option. To save on electricity and cost, there are other favorable techniques in which to attain similar results.

The timely effort in preserving herbs tends to be of importance. Directly after an herb is plucked from its plant, it begins to wilt and expire. Most herbs will naturally last between three and five days. Removing moisture from the herb, immediately, will post-pone this wilt phase. Shaking or patting them with a dry paper towel removes most dampness and/or dew. Also, placing a dry paper towel in your storage container can absorb some of the greens natural secretions.

Herbs with a small amount of moisture content, such as: thyme, rosemary, oregano, sage, dill, small flowers and parsley can be bundled and hung. Separating these herbs into small, stemmed leaves, prior to hanging, can speed up the drying process. After separating leaves, bind in a dry, warm place out of direct sunlight. Optimal drying temperature for most greenery is between eighty and ninety degrees. If the conditions add up, your herbs could be completely dry in a matter of days.

Large-leafed herbs can also be dried using a shallow-rimmed tray; covered with cheesecloth. As some of the bigger leafs may not have lengthy stems, this option may be a better alternative. In this drying method, the leaves can immediately be removed from the stems after being plucked. Placing the leaves in a single layer, cover your tray with the cheesecloth in a well-ventilated area. Similar to the bundle method, it is best to keep these drying herbs out of direct sunlight.

When herbs are completely dry, using these or any other method, stems can be removed. Airtight plastic or glass containers seem to produce lengthier results for the ‘keep’ of your leafy varieties. Herbs can then be placed in your freezer, and held for use at any time thereafter. Signs that leaves that should be discarded, include: darkness of color, brittle to touch or any mold.

Soup, stews, and other creative recipes seem to now be inclusive of more fresh herbs to their ingredient lists. Attempting to cut back on sodium, mostly, but also allowing for an alternative to the receipt of antioxidants in your diet. Crumbling the dried herbs between your fingers before including them in your cuisine can not only enhance your senses and the aromas of your kitchen, but can also add more flavor to your dishes. Adding your herbs in the last twenty minutes of cooking will keep the tastes alive, in not overcooking them.

Regardless of the methods or use for drying, storing or cooking with your herbs, the time commitment is small. It can be fun to experiment with new flavors, while also getting your green time in, regardless of the outdoor conditions.

About the Author: Pamela Ravenwood is a freelance writer, journalist, and writing coach who lives in the desert. In addition to spending her days writing, she also loves to tend to her organic garden where she grows as much of her own food as possible. In this, she counts on her cord reel to keep her hoses from drying out from the desert heat.

Growing Great Tomatoes

Growing tomatoes isn't always as easy as it first may seem. If you have given tomatoes a shot, you have either had great success or miserable failure. If you are one of those people who didn't have much luck - here are a few tricks and solutions.

1. Choose the Right Variety For Your Area - Tomatoes are susceptible to quite an assortment of diseases that include bacterial spot, botrytis fruit rot, bacterial canker, bacterial wilt, fusarium wilt, mosaic, septoria leaf spot, curly top, tobacco mosaic, and early and late blights. Choosing disease-resistant plants as well as plants that are best for your climate zone is vital. In areas that are hot and humidity is high, certain diseases are more prominent.

2.) Give Tomato Plants Enough Breathing Room - Tomato plants need at least 1 1/2 feet between plants, preferably 2 feet, and that's for plants that are grown upright on stakes or cages. Plants spaced too closely will produce few fruit and have more disease problems as the foliage stays wet. Supporting your plants with tomato cages will give them a little more room to grow.

3.) Give Tomatoes Plenty of Sun- Tomato plants need at least seven hours of direct sun. If you have less, you will have fantastic foliage but very few fruit. This brings up the topic of tomato wilt. People who have tomato plants that begin to wilt automatically assume they are getting too much sun. There are many reasons tomato plants wilt. The lack of or too much water is one. Tomato plants that stand in water for very long wilt. If soils stay saturated plants will die. This is why one should plant their tomatoes in well-drained soil or in raised beds.

A third and prominent cause is a disease known as Bacterial wilt. Many gardeners describe plants with this disease as looking like they had hot water poured on them. They are fine one day and the next are permanently wilted. Bacteria actually clog the plumbing system of the plant resulting in a virtually drought. There isn't much that can be done for bacterial wilt except to remove and destroy affected plants. Future plantings should be made in a different location. Tomatoes may be grown in containers, but if roots grow from the bottom of the container into infected soil they may contract the disease. Do not reuse stakes or ties.

Other common causes of tomato wilt include Southern Blight, Fusarium Wilt and Root Knot Nematodes. Nematodes and Fusarium may be avoided by planting tomato varieties that are resistant to both of these pests. Southern Blight, however, is another one of those "overnight" killers like Bacterial Wilt. It can be recognized by white fungal growth at the soil line or by beige "seed pearl" sized balls of white, beige or brown.

4.) Feed Your Tomatoes Appropriately - Tomatoes like a balanced fertilizer, with similar amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Avoid using fertilizers that are intended for lawns. The high nitrogen will push the leaves at the expense of fruit. Look for fertilizers designed for tomatoes and follow the label directions. Or better yet, throw a shovel full of compost around the plants every other week.

6. Identify your pest problems - Remember, it's normal to see insects on your plants and chances are, most of them are not doing any harm. And every year, diseases will cause some yellowing and browning. But you should get more than enough fruit to satisfy your needs even with some pest damage. At the very least, learn to identify common tomato pests so that you can take appropriate action. Use chemicals as a last resort.

7. Purchase Quality Plants - If you are buying tomato seedlings, be sure to purchase only those that look healthy and green with thick stems and no tomatoes or flowers.

8. Thin Plants - As plants approach 3-feet tall, remove many of the leaves from the bottom 1-foot of the stem. These leaves receive very little sunlight and are often the first to develop fungal problems.

By practicing these simple eight steps, you could be well on your way in becoming a successful tomato gardener. Growing tomatoes doesn't have to be hard, it just takes knowledge and patience.

About the Author: Pamela Ravenwood is a freelance writer, journalist, and writing coach who lives in the desert. In addition to spending her days writing, she also loves to tend to her organic garden where she grows as much of her own food as possible. In this, she counts on her cord reel to keep her hoses from drying out from the desert heat.

Potatoes and More Potatoes

Growing potatoes used to be a necessity. Today it is enjoyable. Not only are potatoes high in vitamins but they also come in a large variety of sizes, types and colors. Yes colors. Potatoes aren't just the brown variety we see in the stores. Potatoes come in reds, blues, and yellows as well.

So how does one grow potatoes? First there is picking the type of potato you want to grow. What will you be using your potatoes for - baking or boiling, cooking or salads.

Baking potatoes are the more starchy potatoes. They have a dry, mealy texture to them but turn light and fluffy when cooked. When looking for baking potatoes, varieties to look for include: Russet Burbank, Russet Arcadia, Norgold Russet, Goldrush, Norkotah, Long White (or White Rose or California Long White), and Idaho.

Boiling potatoes are a little waxier. These potatoes come in a variety of shapes; have a thin, smooth skin and an almost waxy flesh. They are relatively high in moisture and sugar, but low in starch. Potato varieties to look for in this category are: Round White, Round Red, Yellow Potato, Red Potato, Salad Potato, La Soda, Red La Rouge, Red Pontiac, Red Nordland, Red Bliss, Yellow Finnish, Ruby Crescent, and Australian Crescent.

There is also an All Purpose potato. Potato varieties in this category include: Yukon Gold, Peruvian Blue, Superior, Kennebec, and Katahdin. These potatoes are moister than baking potatoes and will hold together in boiling water. They are particularly well suited for roasting, pan-frying, and using in soups, stews, and gratins. They can be baked, mashed, and fried, but will not produce the same results as the bakers.

If you just want to grow unique and unusual varieties of potatoes, there are a handful of these as well. The latest potato from Hungary is called the 'Sarpo Mira' and 'Sarpo Axona'.

Want a blue potato? How about the "True Blue"? These potatoes are oblong, smooth and dark purple with scattered tan skin. They have a distinctive color and flavor. Their color changes from dark-violet to medium blue after cooking.

Now for planting your potatoes. Potatoes need to be put in the ground in early spring or as soon as the ground can be worked. This doesn't mean the potato will grow right away; the soil has to reach 45 degrees F. Potatoes can tolerate a light frost, but you should provide some frost-protection for the plants when they are young. This can be a loose covering of straw, or a temporary plastic tent.

Before planting, take your potato and slice it into seeds. Each seed should be approximately 1 1/2-2inches square, and must contain at least 1 or 2 "eyes" or buds. Smaller potatoes may be planted whole. In the next day or so, your seed will form a thick callous over the cuts, which will help to prevent it from rotting once planted.

Potatoes are traditionally grown in rows every 15 inches apart with the rows spaced 2 1/2 to 3 ft. apart. You can grow potatoes in mounds. Each 3-4 foot diameter mound can support 6 to 8 potato plants.

The soil you plant in should be loosened up, this helps the plants establish more quickly. Now place the potato seeds into the trench (cut side down) and then cover them with 3-4 inches of soil. Depending on the soil temperature, the sprouts will begin to emerge in about 2 weeks. At this time add another 3-4 inches of soil.

Your crop of potatoes will form between the seed piece and the surface of the soil. This means that when the stems are about 8 inches high, you will need to add more soil to bring the level half way up the stem of the plant. Another hilling will be needed 2-3 weeks later, at which time you again add soil half way up the stem of the plant. After these initial hillings, it is only necessary to add an inch or two of soil to the hill each week or so, to ensure there is enough soil above the forming potatoes that they don't push out of the hill and get exposed to light.

If you are limited in space, you can use old tires. Pick a spot where you can stack your tires, loosen the surface of the soil just enough to allow for drainage, and set your largest tire in place. Fill the inside of the tire casing loosely with good topsoil, and then set 3-4 potato seeds into the soil. Add enough soil to the tire "hole" to bring it to the same level as the soil inside the tire.

When the new plants are eight inches tall, add another tire and soil to the stack, as in the first level. Repeat the process for your third, and if desired, fourth tires. As you add tires and soil to the stack, the 8" of the plant stalk is covered with soil.

The tires act as an insulator and heat "sink" for your potatoes. This added warmth will cause the lateral roots (where the new potatoes form) to multiply more rapidly, thereby giving you more potatoes.

You may begin to harvest your potatoes 2 to 3-weeks after the plants have finished flowering. The potatoes you dig up may be babies, that is small potatoes. To harvest these potatoes, gently loosen the soil, reach under the plant, and remove the largest tubers, leaving the smaller ones to continue growing.

Potatoes are an easy vegetable to grow, they also store well and can sustain your family's nutritional needs. But on top of all this, they are just fun because of all their varieties.

About the Author: Pamela Ravenwood is a freelance writer, journalist, and writing coach who lives in the desert. In addition to spending her days writing, she also loves to tend to her organic garden where she grows as much of her own food as possible. In this, she counts on her cord reel to keep her hoses from drying out from the desert heat.

Beneficial Insects For Your Garden

The idea of having insects of any variation, living within the garden you work so hard to maintain, can manifest a troublesome stream of thought. In truth, there are several tiny creatures that create a healthy dynamic for your greens. In understanding how these insects operate, it is possible to work with them to create a natural balance within your own garden.

Here are the most common insects that can be a benefit to most all gardens:

• Ladybugs - These familiar beetles work overtime to clear your garden of unwelcome guests. Harmless to humans, ladybugs will feast on aphids. They also lay their eggs directly onto aphid colonies, feeding on these leaf eaters three weeks before they hatch. A ladybug not only eats up to sixty aphids a day, but they also have a ravenous appetite for other small mites and leafhoppers.

• Parasitic Wasps - Fortunately, these are not the stinging wasps most tend find alarming. These wasps feed on pollens and nectars, quite similarly to the ladybug. Once they have found a home within your garden, they most commonly will begin to eat most anything in the grub/worm family. These particular wasps are in need of moisture to survive, thriving on gardens that are well-watered with moist soils.

• Praying Mantis - One of the larger species, these creatures are just as much interesting to have in a garden as they are helpful. Praying Mantis can be purchased in egg form, and placed amid shrubbery or large leaf plants. After they have hatched, they will dine on large beetles, fruit flies, moths and crickets. They require a certain degree of humidity, and are hard to spot, as they tend to avoid direct sunlight.

• Green Lacewings - These winged bugs were initially native to Australia. They are now found worldwide, commonly used in gardens to ward off caterpillars and white flies. Green lacewings commonly do not eat other insects. Their main interest is that of insect’s eggs. Although, if eggs are not in abundance, they will use their paralyzing venom to consume up to 200 aphids per week.

• Dragonflies - The dragonfly is not only of assistance to your garden, but also the tending gardener. Dragonflies eat mosquitoes. They generally gravitate to tall reedy plants, weaving in between them to catch prey. Importantly, any pesticide used to eliminate mosquitoes will also kill off dragonflies. So, after spotting dragonflies and understanding their diet, sprays for mosquitoes can be eliminated.

In an effort to minimize the use and cost of pesticides, allowing beneficial insects to house themselves within a garden is also a benefit to the gardener. In most cases, the trick is to make sure your beneficial insects outnumber insects that can create damage. Invite beneficial insects into your garden by providing nectarous flowers and flowering plants. Also providing a garden with flowers that bloom at alternate times throughout the year will keep your helpful insects from traveling to find a new food base. While it is possible to purchase these critters, it is sometimes most effective to encourage those that are already living within your garden. Allowing your garden insects to work for you may provide astonishing results.

About the Author: Pamela Ravenwood is a freelance writer, journalist, and writing coach who lives in the desert. In addition to spending her days writing, she also loves to tend to her organic garden where she grows as much of her own food as possible. In this, she counts on her cord reel to keep her hoses from drying out from the desert heat.