Keeping Your Lawn Looking Good

Some things to consider when wanting to improve the appearance of your lawn are where you are located, what type of grass is most prevalent, what products you apply or have been applied to your lawn such as insecticides, fungicides, or herbicides, whether your lawn has been fertilized and how often to you water or irrigate your lawn. Others include if you have re-seeded or recently added sod, have had soil tests done on your lawn, and at what height the lawn is mowed and how often. Problems occurring in your lawn might be too much shade, standing water, insects or pests, weeds, moss, rocks, and heavy traffic. If the problem is weeds, determine what type of weeds invade your lawn and how long have you noticed the problem.

When solving a specific problem to make your lawn more beautiful and healthy, decide whether you want to use a synthetic or an organic solution. Take into consideration past efforts to solve the problem, if there were any.

Grass should be mowed at the highest setting or at 3 inches, and each time the grass is mowed it should be cut down about one third of its height. This will give you a good idea of how often you should mow your lawn. Some warm weather grasses such as Bermuda centipede and bentgrass that grow densely need to be mowed at lower mower settings. Make sure to water your lawn deeply and infrequently. Most lawns do best with one inch of water per week. It is best to water all at once instead of over several days. Of course, how much rain the lawn has received must be taken into consideration too.

Because mulching returns nutrients to the lawn, as well as organic matter, it is preferred to mulch your lawn instead of bagging the grass clippings. Mulch also helps to retain water. Sometimes it may be helpful to bag if you have many weeds in which case you will want to get rid of the weed seeds. If your grass has gotten extra long between mowings, it is better to bag also not to create a messy looking lawn. You want your lawn to be free of thatch. Thatch is caused by the grass roots growing too near the surface. By helping with the decomposition process, mulching helps to deter thatch. Grass clippings decompose very guickly because of their high water content.

You may find there are bumpy spots in your lawn while mowing. They can be leveled. One way is to gradually spread about a one quarter inch layer of topsoil or sand in the low spots. Avoid smothering the grass when you do this. If you are concerned about this, then try lifting up the sod and placing dirt underneath and then replacing the sod back making sure not to disturb too many roots in the process. Water the area after this is done.

Aerating your lawn from time to time is a good thing. It improves growth. Core aeration is preferred over spike because it removes small cores of dirt to ease compaction. Spike aeration can compress some types of soil adding to compaction issues. However, if you have grainy or sandy soil, spike aeration is better to use.

When over seeding your lawn, apply a pre-emergent to prevent germination for weed seed germination and allow for grass seed germination. A newer pre-emergent under the name Tupersan is a selective pre-emergent for this purpose.

Dayelle Swensson is an avid writer for the web on a number of topics. Having gardened herself for many years, she is able to advise others about a variety of things including gardening tips, lawn and tree care, watering, hose reel and keeping your home garden looking good and healthy.

Water is the Key to Success When Transplanting

Moving plants around in your garden can be tricky. The most important thing to remember while in this process is to water. Always make sure to keep the plant and it roots moist.

Even though it is recommended not to transplant during the summer, most of the time it is in the summer that you want to do this. You are seeing how things have come up and perhaps it has become too crowded in an area for the plants to be healthy. Or one variety may have just taken over an area and needs to be trimmed back. If it is the summer, remember the sun can be very intense especially on exposed roots. The heat from the sun can be relentless so never leave plants above the ground for very long. Summer is never the best time to move or transplant garden plants. You can successfully transplant garden plants during the hot months if you are careful and follow the gardening tips here.

Make sure the whole plant you want to transplant is hydrated when it is time for you to transplant. Water this plant the day before thoroughly, leaves and all. It is best to dig or transplant on a cloudy, overcast day to avoid the heat from the sun. If you can plan this, all the better. Or perhaps you can schedule to do it in the cooler evening hours. Water the plant right before digging or removing from its pot. When you water, soak the root ball. This will make the soil adhere to the roots so that the roots are not bare. Never leave the roots exposed to sun, heat or wind. If you are transplanting several plants at once, do not remove all of them at once. Do it gradually. Guage the process so that each plant can quickly get into the new soil it will thrive.

Again, water is the key. Water the hole that the transplant will be going into before you place it there. After the plant is in the hole, fill it halfway with water. Allow the water to settle the soil around the roots and then finish putting more soil into the hole filling the hole. Lightly firm the soil around the transplant. And once again, water the whole plant, leaves and all.

Since you will be watering so much during this process, a wise investment is a garden hose reel. It makes the task of watering easier by storing your hose properly saving time from unwinding the kinks that inevitably occur otherwise.

For three to five days after you have transplanted, if possible, shield it from any direct sunlight. You can lean a board in front of the new transplant or use a floating row cover to block strong sun from hitting it. You want the effort to be worth it.

When you water can be as important as how much you water. Transplants will need watering every day, if not more, so check the plant daily for the first couple of weeks. If it is wilting, water the plant. Until the plant gets familiar with its new environment and depending on the weather, you may need to water twice a day. Never let it dry out. The time the transplant needs to have to get familiar with its new spot varies. It also depends on the plant you chose to transplant. If it is a hardy one, you will have less concern. General rule is the larger the plant, the more water it will need.

Plants go through shock when they are uprooted and given a brand new home in the earth. They need some tender, thoughtful, extra care to make it through the stressful transition time, especially if it is summer. Remember to water, water, water.

Dayelle Swensson is an avid writer for the web on a number of topics. Having gardened herself for many years, she is able to advise others about a variety of things including gardening tips, lawn and tree care, watering, hose reel and keeping your home garden looking good and healthy.

Mulching Your Garden

It is a good practice to spread mulch on top of your soil around your plantings every spring and fall. Mulch your garden when you want to suppress weed growth, retain moisture in your soil, keep your soil cool, plus make your garden even more attractive.

This ground covering comes in many varieties. Shredded or chipped bark is the most common of the organic mulches. It also is the most dense, woody, and dry meaning it will take longer for the nutrients to break down and enter into your soil. Others include: compost, composted manure, straw, grass clippings, newspaper, and shredded leaves. Of these mulches, find out where it originated because you do not want mulch containing a lot of weed seeds to germinate in your soil. Organic mulch increases your soil’s fertility giving your plants a good foundation to grow. It has to be replaced because it naturally decomposes; but as it does this, your soil becomes even more rich in the process.

Because the woody bark mulches do not mix well into soil, avoid using them in places where you expect to be digging up the soil to put in new plantings. Use bark mulches around trees, shrubs or the plantings around your house foundation.

Side dress your plants with compost and composted manure during the growing season and you will see how fast it makes your plants grow. These mulches boost the nutrients in the soil, but make sure they are weed free.

The best use for straw mulch is your vegetable garden. It keeps the paths between the rows of crop weed free and less muddy. Because straw mulch decomposes very slowly, it will last for the whole growing season and is easy to take up when the garden is ready to be put to bed.

Grass clippings are the most green mulch with a high water content. They decompose rather rapidly and have an odor so use this mulch in a remote area of your yard. Because of the high water content, they can be slimy and slippery. Use grass clippings to cover open, unplanted areas or bare spots on your lawn. If pesticides are used on your lawn then do not use this mulch where you want to plant flower beds, and of course, not near your vegetable garden. You can also mix in grass clippings (untreated only) to your compost bin.

Newspaper as mulch can be laid down in layers as a weed barrier over the ground before another mulch such as bark mulch or gravel is spread over it to make a path in your garden. Shredded newspaper has been used for years to keep plant roots moist while shipping.

Shredded leaves are nature’s mulch and are free. Earthworms love the fallen and shredded leaves. Spread this mulch over your vegetable garden after harvest in the fall to begin decomposing over the winter. The leaves that are not shredded retain the most moisture and in the spring you can break them up easily and work them into the soil.

Dayelle Swensson is an avid writer for the web on a number of topics. Having gardened herself for many years, she is able to advise others about a variety of things including gardening tips, lawn and tree care, watering, hose reel and keeping your home garden looking good and healthy.

Watering Your Garden

It usually is best to allow the soil in your garden to partially dry out between watering your plants. If you can see your footprints in your lawn or if it lacks overall shine then it's time to water your lawn. Annuals and vegetables should be watered at the first sign of droop. Tougher plants that live several years only need watering when you see they stay droopy after it cools off in the evening.

It is important to reach down to the roots when you water, so water long enough and deeply to help moisten the whole root zone. When plants are watered deeply they build healthier, stronger root systems. To determine if you are watering deep enough to moisten the whole root zone, just dig in with a trowel after watering to check the depth of the moisture.

Of course, sometimes this can be costly or there may be drought condition. There are ways to lower water bills and maintain more moisture to your plants which include the following. Build your soil with mulch and/or compost, to hold water and prevent evaporation. Choose low water use plants which, once established, can often thrive just on rainfall. Using soaker hoses or drip irrigation on beds can save 50% or more of water usage compared to sprinklers. To water just the right amount use a timer that screws right onto the hose end. Water your lawn separately from other plantings or your vegetable garden. They each absorb water at different rates. Ever found out you are watering the pavement instead of the lawn? Make sure sprinklers are set up efficiently. When soil is dry or compacted it won't absorb water quickly. If water puddles, stop watering for a while and then restart, so the water has time to soak into the ground. Water in the early morning or evening. If you water during mid-day half the water evaporates quickly with the heat of the sun. Practicing these simple, easy steps can make every drop count.

A way of making watering easier is to get a garden hose reel. Hoses, especially the longer ones, tend to get tangled or even knotted. This is frustrating and time is wasted trying to get the kinks out in order for the water to flow through the hose. A watering reel eliminates these problems and stores the hose in a compact area ready to use whenever you need it.

There are pros and cons to automatic watering systems. They can either waste lots of water or be a fairly efficient way of watering. It is recommended that every year you should have a professional test, repair and adjust your system. And you should inspect the system while operating it once a month. Look for any leaks, or heads that are plugged or misdirected. This maintenance is important for the system to run efficiently. Install a rain shutoff device. No sense in watering when it is raining. Also, adjusting the watering schedule according to the season helps. In July and August your garden and lawn need much more water than they do in May or September.

Dayelle Swensson is an avid writer for the web on a number of topics. Having gardened herself for many years, she is able to advise others about a variety of things including gardening tips, lawn and tree care, watering, hose reel and keeping your home garden looking good and healthy.

What You Can Do About Weeds

Weeds can be such a problem. They grow fast and can take over your garden rapidly if not controlled. If there’s a bare spot in your garden, a weed seed will find it. Weeds always grow where you don’t want them to grow. Some weeds are easily removed by hand and others are persistent about growing back. The longer they are left to establish themselves and spread, the more difficult it becomes to get rid of them.

There are two types of weeds, annual and perennial. Prior to seed germination, annual weeds that grow from seed can be prevented with the application of a pre-emergent herbicide. There is also a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent many perennial type weeds. A post-emergent herbicide is available to use for after the weeds appear, or there’s always pulling them out by hand too.

The weeds that spread throughout your garden by seed are annual weeds. They are brought into the garden by birds, four-legged animals or by just sticking to your clothing as you walk by. Crab grass, bindweed, chickweed, knotweed, lambs-quarters, mallow, pigweed, purple deadnettle, groundsel, common nettle, speedwell, spurge and yellow oxalis are all annual weeds.

Some weeds will grow in the warm weather and others prefer the cooler season, just as with other plants. Weeds that like the warmer season tend to start growing in the spring and hang around all through the growing season. Cool-season weeds sprout up any time from the fall all the way through to the following spring. They will flower in late spring or early summer. The way to get control of annual weeds is to eradicate them before they go to seed again. And luckily annual weeds have a shallow root system making it easy to pull them out by hand. Unfortunately, weeding is an ongoing process. Get into the habit of weeding as you go along gardening and then the task will not become so overwhelming.

Perennial weeds are the most difficult to handle. Ground ivy, burdock, dandelion, dock, horsetail, Japanese knotweed, plantain, poison ivy, quack grass, thistle, ragweed are a few perennial weeds. The thing to remember about perennial weeds is that the whole plant and its entire root system must be removed to successfully eradicate them. These weeds can actually reproduce from just a tiny little piece of root left behind. Their root systems spread out wide or go very deep, so it can be tricky. Tilling or hoeing isn’t an option. If your are hand weeding make sure to get the whole root, and it is best to do this in the early spring when the ground has just thawed. Sometimes herbicides are the only solution for tough perennial weeds like poison ivy, ground ivy and brambles.

There are other common-sense ways to control the weeds from taking over your garden. Before planting the new plant you just purchased from the nursery, check to see if there are any unwanted hitchhiker weeds that you do not want to plant along with your new plant. Keep cultivation to a minimum. Many weeds will not germinate until they are exposed to sunlight. Frequent cultivating or tilling can bring up the weed seeds to the surface. Use mulches to keep weeds at bay. Mulches will smother weed seeds and are good for cooling the soil to retain the moisture in it.

Dayelle Swensson is an avid writer for the web on a number of topics. Having gardened herself for many years, she is able to advise others about a variety of things including gardening tips, lawn and tree care, watering, hose reel and keeping your home garden looking good and healthy.

Today More People Choose to Garden

A modern-day gardening movement is emerging in the United States as the concern for the environment grows along with the growing economic situation. To ease the pressure of public food supply, during both world wars, the American government encouraged citizens to grow their own vegetables, fruits and herbs to be more self-sufficient and less vulnerable to economic hardships. Today gardens focus on environmental and financial benefits. However, self-sufficiency, especially during a time of war, helps everyone.

The benefits of saving on your grocery bill today are most gratifying. Starting a vegetable, fruit and herb garden requires only a modest financial investment, mainly in the beginning. You will enjoy more tasty and nutritional food being that it will come right from the ground or tree to your plate or palate. Your garden will give you easy access to healthy, even organic, produce. Rest assured that your produce will not contain any harmful disinfectants or be pumped with nasty chemicals to make it look prettier and/or larger.

Think of how green you will become harvesting food from your own garden. The produce bought at grocery stores can travel hundreds of miles from the grower to grocer, wasting gas and energy. If your garden produces large harvests, you could sell or donate the leftovers.

Once you get into this, you will discover it can be fun and can be enjoyed by all ages. To get started, consider which type of garden would best suit your lifestyle. If you don’t have much yard space, container gardening on a sunny patio or balcony is great or even just a windowsill can work nicely for small indoor gardens. For an outdoor garden, choose a sunny, level, easily accessible location. Using a raised bed is very convenient and gives the plants more room to spread out their roots freely.

Of course, will need tools and buying high quality tools is worthwhile because they will last for many years. You should have to get, at the bare minimum, a shovel, a wheelbarrow, a spreader, a hose with a spray nozzle and a hoe. Another useful tool is a garden hose reel to make storing your hose easy.

Now comes a fun part: you get to choose which vegetables, fruits and herbs you would like to grow. Some plants work better for container or inside gardens; for instance: herbs, tomatoes, sprouts, lettuces, peppers and strawberries. For outdoor gardens, you will first need to consider the climate zone in which you live and the planting season for each plant to be the most successful.

Today Americans have become very sensitive to environment and health concerns. Buying all-natural and organic products at the heath food markets can be expensive. A home grown garden eliminates this expense and can be a very pleasurable, rewarding experience. Join the others in partaking in an enjoyable solution to eating healthy and living green for years to come.

Dayelle Swensson is an avid writer for the web on a number of topics. Having gardened herself for many years, she is able to advise others about a variety of things including gardening tips, lawn and tree care, watering, hose reel and keeping your home garden looking good and healthy.

The Most Important Garden Duty to Master

Learn how to water your garden the right way and reap the rewards. Here are some watering tips from the green thumb experts on how to best water your garden.

The first thing is very important and will sound simple, but it isn’t. Be aware of both under watering and over watering. Many novices in their willingness to take care of their plants tend to over water their garden. Too much water will drown your plants, and some plants actually don’t like much water at all. Read up about your plants to know how much water they need.

Make it a daily habit to check the soil in your garden for moisture. A good way to do this is by just sticking your index finger in the soil near where your plants are growing and feel if it is dry or wet.

When watering your garden to achieve maximum watering power, you should compare the soil’s moisture with that of a wet sponge that you’ve just rung out. That is about the right amount of wetness your soil should have.

Because soil can dry out at different rates make sure to check it every time you water your garden. Many things can alter the amount of wetness kept in your soil: your climate, the amount of sunshine and how thirsty your particular plants are. Some plants do not require being watered every day.

When the soil is slightly drier than that rung out sponge, you should water your garden again. Be careful not to water too often or too little. Keep in mind that consistency of the rung out sponge. Once you start to understand your plants’ needs, you will begin to enjoy seeing the seedlings turn into full grown plants. When and how much you water your garden will give you the success you desire.

There are many ways to get water to your garden. The most common is the garden hose. If your garden hose is longer than 25 feet it is going to get tangled and develop kinks that prevent the flow of the water through the hose. Using a garden hose reel eliminates this frustration and saves time.

The key to transplanting is water also. If you feel you must transplant your plants, try to avoid doing this in the summer. Because of the heat and intense sun during the summer, it is never the best time to move plants. When transplanting any time of year, follow these few steps for success: water the plants to be dug and transplanted the day before you plan to do this– the shock is much less if it is fully hydrated; dig and transplant during the coolest part of the day, the early evening, or when it is overcast; water the plant just before it is dug soaking the ball root; never leave its roots exposed to the sun, heat, or wind; water the hole before you place the transplant into it; after the transplant is put into its hole, fill it halfway with water; and allow the water to settle in the soil around the roots. Then finish filling the hole. Pad the soil down lightly around the base of the plant and once again, water the plant and its leaves.

It is best to shield your newly transplanted plant from the direct sun for 3 to 5 days. Check the plant daily. They will need to be watered every day, if not more. If it is wilting, water the plant. Keep on top of the watering of this transplant because it is in shock no matter what time of year you do this. Precaution is vital to ease the plant’s transition to a new ground.

Dayelle Swensson is an avid writer for the web on a number of topics. Having gardened herself for many years, she is able to advise others about a variety of things including gardening tips, lawn and tree care, watering, hose reel and keeping your home garden looking good and healthy.

Providing Proper Watering to Your Garden

For the home gardener, there are many options for irrigating vegetable gardens that are simple to use and work adequately. The watering can or garden hose are the most simple and are fine for small gardens. The garden hose should have a fan nozzle or adjustable spray attachment. When watering with the hose, the low pressure stream of water should be directed to the base of the plant and not the foliage. An easy and very convenient way to store the hose when not in use is with the garden hose reel. Other options for watering are the portable lawn sprinkler and a soaker hose. There is also a method of watering that is the best to use for conserving water: drip or trickle irrigation. This method does require special equipment, but depending on your situation, it might be the one most efficient and necessary.

There are many different types of sprinklers. Overhead sprinklers spreading the water up and over your garden, offer a wide range of watering patterns and area coverage. They are convenient and the pattern display sometimes can be entertaining to watch; however, they are not very water-efficient. Most sprinklers deposit less water at the outer edges of the spray and more at the center source. The sprinkler needs to be placed at staggered locations to provide overlap. This can result in an over application of water in some areas. Also, if it is hot or windy, a considerable amount of water is lost to evaporation especially with the small droplet sizes. Applying water more evenly than overhead sprinklers are oscillating sprinklers. The area they cover can be adjusted to a square or rectangle, making the overlap problem more controllable. When the sprinkler sprays on foliage it may increase disease problems. To reduce the chances for disease outbreaks, water in the early morning and during the day the water will naturally evaporate off.

An inexpensive and easy irrigating device which conserves on water is the soaker hose. It is made of plastic or canvas tubing that allows water to seep out all along its length at a slow rate. Water is conserved because the flow is directed into the ground near the plant. There is little loss of water because no runoff occurs and there is no evaporation happening either. The gentle stream of water will not compact the soil or cause any splashing of muddied water on your vegetables. Another method, the drip or trickle system is ideally suited for raised bed or container gardens. Short tubes, or emitters can come off a main water supply hose. The emitter runs the water directly at the roots of the desired plants leaving leaves and any fruits dry. You replace the water lost on a daily basis with the drip system. A filter or self-flushing emitters can be included in the system to prevent clogging. Because such a minimum amount of water is used, the drip system is a cost-effective irrigation tool.

Always be aware of the times in the growth development of your vegetables when an adequate amount of water should be available. The first few weeks after planting or transplanting seedlings are the periods when plants may be adversely affected by not getting enough water.

Dayelle Swensson is an avid writer for the web on a number of topics. Having gardened herself for many years, she is able to advise others about a variety of things including gardening tips, lawn and tree care, watering, hose reel and keeping your home garden looking good and healthy.

The Contemporary Cottage Garden

To begin, let’s explain a bit about the history of cottage gardens. The cottage garden has its roots in 18th century England. At that time it was very practical with folks relying on their gardens to supply them with their family's needs. It included not only a variety of plants but animals too. The cottage garden’s purpose was to supply food, medicine, and dyes. The cottager's small plot allowed for no wasted space. This ended up in packed abundant garden growth which was well maintained also preventing waste. An integral part of a cottage garden is a fence or compact hedge growth. The original purpose of this was to keep the livestock separate and away from eating the produce. Cottagers planted what they knew would work, often using plants passed along by their neighbors.

The modern interpretation of this old style is the contemporary cottage garden and it takes on many forms. There are no hard and fast rules, but a few general principles remain from the old purposes of the garden. There is a variety of different plants offering different resources. Many times the variety factor makes a pleasant display of many colors when in bloom. The plants might be used for decorating, eating, or medicinal. Whether or not the present day gardener uses the plants for all these purposes is questionable. There is also abundance evident and continual growth. The modern cottage gardener still is concerned about the look of packed yet healthy growth. And lastly, there is a delightful informality about the cottage garden present always.

As do all gardens, the contemporary cottage garden needs plenty of water. The 18th century English cottage garden most likely was watered by hand with a watering can that was filled by the well or rain storage bin. The modern-day cottage garden is more likely to be watered with a hose that is stored with a garden hose reel.

Some might argue that it's not a cottage garden without a fence or a hedge. But this style of gardening is open for plenty of interpretation. One must keep in mind and allow for the gardener’s climate, surroundings, and personal preference. Also because of the informality of it, as was noted above, there are no hard and fast rules.

Remembering this, the cottage garden can contain the plants its owner likes growing and knows work best on the site. It is a casual style of gardening allowing for individual freedom preferred by many current day gardeners. Among the plants commonly found in the cottage garden, with substitutions made for different climates, are the following: rose, lavender, cottage pink, delphinium, foxglove, lavatera, cornflower, love-in-a-mist, poppy, salvia, sweet pea, morning glory, moonflower, iris, lily, zinnia, black-eyed Susan, sunflower, Queen Anne's lace, coneflower, nicotiana, mignonette, heliotrope, cosmos, cleome, bee balm, butterflyweed, aster, goldenrod, nasturtium, flax, daisies, hollyhock, bachelor's button, marigold, forget-me-not, pansy, larkspur. snapdragon, canterbury bells, cockscomb, hydrangea, phlox, and lamb's ear.

Dayelle Swensson is an avid writer for the web on a number of topics. Having gardened herself for many years, she is able to advise others about a variety of things including gardening tips, lawn and tree care, watering, hose reel and keeping your home garden looking good and healthy.

Starting Your Garden from Seeds

The first thing you must do when you want to start a garden from seeds is to make sure you can get all the necessary equipment or materials to do this properly. You will need pots—to start, use peat moss pots. Other pots and planters, tools, potting mix, plant markers, watering supplies, grow lights, fertilizers and sometimes heated seed germination equipment are just some examples of what you may need. You will also need some desire and patience.

You have selected the seeds of the plants you have chosen to grow. This requires a little careful research to know which ones will work where you plan to grow your garden. Be sure to read the instructions on the back of each seed packet for the zone in which you reside. And to achieve optimal results, follow the recommended timeline: for example, planting three weeks before the last frost.

Now here is an easy how-to guide to getting started: Loosen and dampen the potting mix before putting it into peat moss pots or other seed starting containers. The mix should be thoroughly moist, not dripping, however. Each peat pot can be filled with the prepared potting soil about 2/3 full. Avoid packing mix into the pots. Plant at least three seeds in each peat moss pot. Some seeds require pre-soaking or chilling before planting. The instructions on the seed packet will tell you if this is necessary. Cover the seeds with some more soil loosely and water. Markers for easy identification will be helpful to place in each pot. Using any type of plastic, cover the peat moss pots loosely. The plastic acts as a greenhouse holding in moisture and heat. When the seedlings start to emerge from the soil remove the plastic.

The ideal temperature range for seed germination is 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Seedlings need between 12 and 18 hours of light each day. A fluorescent or high intensity plant light may be necessary for this to happen. When the seedlings start to grow leaves, fertilize them. At 2 to 3 inches tall, the seedlings can be transferred into larger pots. If two or more seedlings have emerged within the same container, remove all but the strongest seedling. Remember to cut instead of pulling out unwanted seedlings as their roots could be intertwined below.

Two to three weeks must be allowed to introduce seedlings to the outdoors gradually. Move your seedlings to a shady spot for increasing amounts of time each day. Gradually increase their time outdoors, and make sure to protect them from inclement weather.

Remember to water the seedlings before and after planting. Do what makes sense here. Do not over water which will wash out the seedlings. Soil that looks muddy probably is and requires better drainage. On the other hand, soil that looks and feels dry needs watering. Seedlings will wilt and die without water. Use your judgment to provide the best environment for the seedlings to grow strong.

Dayelle Swensson is an avid writer for the web on a number of topics. Having gardened herself for many years, she is able to advise others about a variety of things including gardening tips, lawn and tree care, watering, hose reel and keeping your home garden looking good and healthy.

Are You Over Watering Your Garden?

Most gardeners know when their garden needs watering and are well aware of the effects of under watering their plants. Too few gardeners are aware of the dangers of over watering, however. Over watering is even worse and more damaging. The biggest reason for the death of a house plant is because it has been over watered.

Depending on the type of plant, the time of year, the temperature, your climate, the signs of an over watered plant are generally universal. The most common symptoms are defoliation where the lower leaves on the plant turn yellow and fall, wilting or drooping, spotted foliage, and gray fuzzy mould around the stem, leaves and flowers of the plant.

These symptoms can also be an indication of other problems rather than over watering. Sudden and fast defoliation could also be caused by rapid changes in temperature and possibly under watering. Gradual defoliation could be from insufficient light or fertilizer. Too much fertilizer or exposure to extreme cold could make the leaves fall. An easy way to determine whether you are over watering is by carefully observing how frequently you water your plants. Another way is to check the plant's roots to see if they appear rotten.

The plants in your garden should receive about one inch of water per week, as a general rule. This is only a starting platform for watering your garden; it is much more effective if you personally observe your garden in order to judge how much water it needs. Depending on the seasonal needs of your garden plants, remember that this one inch amount will have to be adjusted from time to time.

The rate of evapotranspiration is one of the most significant environmental factors affecting how much water your garden will need. Evapotranspiration refers to the two ways that plants lose water. Evaporation is when your plants naturally loose water into the air. Transpiration is when plants lose water by itself, usually through the leaves or the stem.

A most effective way of watering your garden is with a hose and making the task easy is a water hose reel. So many times it is a drudgery to unwind the kinks out which stop the flow or untangle a hose that has been put away hastily. A hose reel will solve these problems. In this way, the task will be less overlooked and ensure your garden gets the water when it needs it.

Just use some common sense when watering your garden. First, simply examine the soil to see if it is too dry and crumbly, or if it's too wet and muddy. Checking the soil often will help you avoid both over watering and under watering. Second, water slowly. Watering too quickly causes runoff and waste. Third, water deeply so that more than just the top layer of soil receives water. You want to make sure the water is getting to the root system. And last gardening tip is to water your garden in the morning when it's cool. If you water during the day the heat of the sun causes the water to evaporate too quickly. And if you water in the evening disease and fungal growth can occur in humid climates.



Dayelle Swensson is an avid writer for the web on a number of topics. Having gardened herself for many years, she is able to advise others about a variety of things including gardening tips, lawn and tree care, watering, hose reel and keeping your home garden looking good and healthy.