Potatoes and More Potatoes

Growing potatoes used to be a necessity. Today it is enjoyable. Not only are potatoes high in vitamins but they also come in a large variety of sizes, types and colors. Yes colors. Potatoes aren't just the brown variety we see in the stores. Potatoes come in reds, blues, and yellows as well.

So how does one grow potatoes? First there is picking the type of potato you want to grow. What will you be using your potatoes for - baking or boiling, cooking or salads.

Baking potatoes are the more starchy potatoes. They have a dry, mealy texture to them but turn light and fluffy when cooked. When looking for baking potatoes, varieties to look for include: Russet Burbank, Russet Arcadia, Norgold Russet, Goldrush, Norkotah, Long White (or White Rose or California Long White), and Idaho.

Boiling potatoes are a little waxier. These potatoes come in a variety of shapes; have a thin, smooth skin and an almost waxy flesh. They are relatively high in moisture and sugar, but low in starch. Potato varieties to look for in this category are: Round White, Round Red, Yellow Potato, Red Potato, Salad Potato, La Soda, Red La Rouge, Red Pontiac, Red Nordland, Red Bliss, Yellow Finnish, Ruby Crescent, and Australian Crescent.

There is also an All Purpose potato. Potato varieties in this category include: Yukon Gold, Peruvian Blue, Superior, Kennebec, and Katahdin. These potatoes are moister than baking potatoes and will hold together in boiling water. They are particularly well suited for roasting, pan-frying, and using in soups, stews, and gratins. They can be baked, mashed, and fried, but will not produce the same results as the bakers.

If you just want to grow unique and unusual varieties of potatoes, there are a handful of these as well. The latest potato from Hungary is called the 'Sarpo Mira' and 'Sarpo Axona'.

Want a blue potato? How about the "True Blue"? These potatoes are oblong, smooth and dark purple with scattered tan skin. They have a distinctive color and flavor. Their color changes from dark-violet to medium blue after cooking.

Now for planting your potatoes. Potatoes need to be put in the ground in early spring or as soon as the ground can be worked. This doesn't mean the potato will grow right away; the soil has to reach 45 degrees F. Potatoes can tolerate a light frost, but you should provide some frost-protection for the plants when they are young. This can be a loose covering of straw, or a temporary plastic tent.

Before planting, take your potato and slice it into seeds. Each seed should be approximately 1 1/2-2inches square, and must contain at least 1 or 2 "eyes" or buds. Smaller potatoes may be planted whole. In the next day or so, your seed will form a thick callous over the cuts, which will help to prevent it from rotting once planted.

Potatoes are traditionally grown in rows every 15 inches apart with the rows spaced 2 1/2 to 3 ft. apart. You can grow potatoes in mounds. Each 3-4 foot diameter mound can support 6 to 8 potato plants.

The soil you plant in should be loosened up, this helps the plants establish more quickly. Now place the potato seeds into the trench (cut side down) and then cover them with 3-4 inches of soil. Depending on the soil temperature, the sprouts will begin to emerge in about 2 weeks. At this time add another 3-4 inches of soil.

Your crop of potatoes will form between the seed piece and the surface of the soil. This means that when the stems are about 8 inches high, you will need to add more soil to bring the level half way up the stem of the plant. Another hilling will be needed 2-3 weeks later, at which time you again add soil half way up the stem of the plant. After these initial hillings, it is only necessary to add an inch or two of soil to the hill each week or so, to ensure there is enough soil above the forming potatoes that they don't push out of the hill and get exposed to light.

If you are limited in space, you can use old tires. Pick a spot where you can stack your tires, loosen the surface of the soil just enough to allow for drainage, and set your largest tire in place. Fill the inside of the tire casing loosely with good topsoil, and then set 3-4 potato seeds into the soil. Add enough soil to the tire "hole" to bring it to the same level as the soil inside the tire.

When the new plants are eight inches tall, add another tire and soil to the stack, as in the first level. Repeat the process for your third, and if desired, fourth tires. As you add tires and soil to the stack, the 8" of the plant stalk is covered with soil.

The tires act as an insulator and heat "sink" for your potatoes. This added warmth will cause the lateral roots (where the new potatoes form) to multiply more rapidly, thereby giving you more potatoes.

You may begin to harvest your potatoes 2 to 3-weeks after the plants have finished flowering. The potatoes you dig up may be babies, that is small potatoes. To harvest these potatoes, gently loosen the soil, reach under the plant, and remove the largest tubers, leaving the smaller ones to continue growing.

Potatoes are an easy vegetable to grow, they also store well and can sustain your family's nutritional needs. But on top of all this, they are just fun because of all their varieties.

About the Author: Pamela Ravenwood is a freelance writer, journalist, and writing coach who lives in the desert. In addition to spending her days writing, she also loves to tend to her organic garden where she grows as much of her own food as possible. In this, she counts on her cord reel to keep her hoses from drying out from the desert heat.

Community Gardens: Fertilizing and Pest Control Part 4

If you have been following this series on Community Gardens, you have thus far read about what community garden is, how to organize one in your community garden, what types of rules and concepts need to be decided upon before putting your organization together and how to choose your gardening site. You also have read about the amount of chores required to prepare a garden site and maintain it.

This article will focus on how to keep your garden site fertilized correctly as well as protect it from pests.

To start, one must understand some basics of gardening. If you are creating a community garden, it is most likely you already understand this. For those who are reading this article and are interested in participating in a community garden, who have never gardened before –this information is for you.

When it comes to growing healthy plants and food, you must have healthy soil. Soil requires a certain blend of nutrients to feed your plants. One way to maintain healthy nutrients in the soil is to not plant the same plants over and over in the same place. Why? Certain plants require a lot of one type of nutrient from the soil and can deplete the soil before long, if not rotated out. For example, corn requires a lot of nitrogen. Planting corn over and over again, without feeding the soil, could deplete it of the nitrogen it could need the next growing season.

Your garden soil must maintain the three major nutrients, which are nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P), and potassium (K). Adding fertilizer can help sustain these nutrients and replenish them year after year. There are four basic types of fertilizers used for this, they include composts, animal manures, natural or organic fertilizers, and chemical fertilizers.

How do you know what your garden soil needs? You can take a soil test and the results will show you what you may be lacking. These tests can be very effective when conducted in the Fall. If you add your fertilizer or needed nutrients before winter, they will have plenty of time to be absorbed before the spring planting. Manure, in particular, which has not been composted, should never be applied when vegetable or fruit plants are mature, because it can infect plants with bacteria that could make you sick if you consume them.

Chemical or artificial fertilizers should be avoided if at all possible, because the regular use of them can actually impede the soil's ability to hold nutrients. Overuse of chemical fertilizers in conventional agricultural practices and turf grass management has also been proven to have negative effects on soil and water resources. For healthy plants and people, ditch the chemicals!

Now for pest control. While there are many beneficial insects that your plants rely on to keep them healthy and productive, there are also some insects and animals that will harm your garden by attacking the leaves, fruits, or roots of your plants. Each state and region is different in regards to the pest problems they might face, so check with your local gardening associations, or agricultural agencies to find out what garden pests are most common.

Once you discover what you are facing, there are only a few methods you will use to protect your plants. These include physical control, cultural control, biological control and chemical control.

Physical control means that you have to physically keep pests out of your garden with barriers and traps. You can also remove pests by hand on a one-by-one basis.

For large pests such as deer and rabbits, you can install fencing or mesh and wire barriers. The mesh and wire will also help protect your seedlings from birds.

Companion planting is another natural way to practice pest control. This is one of the oldest and most well known types of control. For example, you can plant marigolds to ward off flying pests and nematodes, but many other plants can do the job as well. Chives, coriander, and nasturtium can help ward off aphids; rosemary and sage keep carrot flies at bay; hyssop, mint, oregano, rosemary, sage, and thyme keep cabbage moths out of your garden.

Last is chemical. Chemical controls should only be relied on as a last resort, because they can harm the soil and the beneficial insects that you need in your garden. Chemicals are also expensive, and will be washed off of your garden when it rains where they can pollute groundwater and waterways like streams and rivers. Use chemicals only if you can find no other way to cope with the pests in your garden, and then do so sparingly. Insect-specific chemical treatments, like slug pellets or Japanese beetle traps, will have little or no impact on the beneficial insects in your garden, but these can still have negative environmental consequences. Always make sure to read instructions carefully, and use only the minimum amounts recommended.

Gardening takes time and care, but it can be done easily with a little information and some practice. Keeping a journal of your gardening experiments, noting what works and doesn’t work can also be beneficial as you progress with your community garden.

About the Author: Pamela Ravenwood is a freelance writer, journalist, and writing coach who lives in the desert. In addition to spending her days writing, she also loves to tend to her organic garden where she grows as much of her own food as possible. In this, she counts on her cord reel to keep her hoses from drying out from the desert heat.

Going Green! Organic Gardening

Organic gardening is all the rage and for good reason. Risks to pets, people and the environment are just beginning to be understood. Becoming an organic farmer takes a little planning. Typical garden problems need to be proactively managed as opposed to correcting them after they happen.

Pesticides and toxic chemicals can build up in your system or have long-term effects on your health. Pesticide exposure has been linked to nerve damage, cancer and birth defects.

Children and infants are at a dramatically increased risk for damage done by chemicals and pesticides. Children have excretory systems that are still developing. This means that they are less able to rid their bodies of chemicals consumed. Chemical damage can alter the biology of their bodies permanently, causing all sorts of problems. Developing organs and tissues can suffer when chemicals block absorption of nutrients.

Needless to say, avoiding chemicals and pesticides in your garden is a good step towards protecting the health and well being of yourself and your family.

To grow an organic garden, you need to anticipate problems that you may encounter. Keep a garden diary to document problems that you encounter and treatments that were effective for you. This way, you can adjust your planting patterns and types of plants each year. Many people find that it takes a bit of research to really have a successful organic garden.

If you have had a garden in your area before, you probably already know what to expect. For example, you may be able to predict that your garden will get fire ants and rabbits will make themselves at home. If you already know what you will be up against, preventing problems will be easier. Talk to your neighbors if you are not sure.

Prevention is key. You really do not have to worry about many bugs. Nature has a good balance of its own and over ninety percent of bugs will not harm your plants. Simple organic solutions can help you keep bugs and animals that you do not want out of your garden.

For example, human hair spread around the garden will keep out rabbits. Lavender and basil deter ants. Rosemary will repel mosquitoes. The way that you arrange your plants can help protect certain vegetables, too. Garlic and peppers planted around tomatoes and squash will help protect them from harmful insects and rodents.

Finding the right balance of beneficial bugs and plants may take a little time and effort, but the fruits of your labor will be well worth it. Once you have the right combination of plants, caring for your organic garden is as simple as watering. Keep your garden hose on a hose reel for quick and easy access. You will love your organic garden and how easy it is to take care of.

About the Author: Stacy Pessoney is an award winning author and writer of web content for many different web sites. She is well versed in many different areas, including gardening, hose reel, lawn care and landscaping.

Crop Rotation in your Home Garden

Moving your garden to different spots in your yard from year to year can be beneficial. You can prevent disease, help your crops to produce and even help prevent insect infestation in your garden. Learn how to rotate your vegetables so that your soil continues to help you grow great vegetables every year.

Using peat moss in your garden is one way to help the soil stay healthy. If you do not have the space to move your garden each year, then using peat moss can really help you extend the life of the soil. Also, remember not to plant your vegetables in the same spot as the year before. Keep a chart of where you planted each thing so that you can be sure you do not use the same spot for the same plant twice in a row.

Different vegetables use up different nutrients in the soil. For example, parsley, potatoes, spinach and corn can pull a lot of magnesium from the soil. In order for these plants to properly produce, they should be rotated to a new place in the garden each year. Tomatoes are especially important to rotate. They pull more nutrients from the soil than just about any other commonly grown vegetable. If the same soil is used over and over, your tomatoes will begin to contract diseases or simply not produce.

Planting and rotating your crops in a certain order can also help to naturally repel insects. Most insects do not like the stronger smelling vegetables. Plant onions, garlic, dill and rosemary between your other crops. The smell will help keep insects away and these plants are small and will not shade your larger vegetables. If you are not interested in growing these vegetables, consider boiling garlic cloves and using the water to spray on the leaves of your plants. This method has been found to be very effective in repelling almost all kinds of common garden insects.

If you do not want to move your garden every year, consider a raised box garden. You can add bagged soil, cow manure and peat moss each year to maintain nutrients and the acidity necessary for abundant vegetable growth. Remember that a box garden, or container garden, may need more water than a garden planted directly in the ground. Keep a garden hose reel handy so that you can easily and quickly water your garden in the summer heat. With a plan in mind, you can produce healthy, nutrient-packed vegetables year after year.

About the Author: Stacy Pessoney is an award winning author and writer of web content for many different web sites. She is well versed in many different areas, including gardening, hose reel, lawn care and landscaping.

Selling a Home in a Troubled Economy

Selling a home in an economic recession is a challenge. Despite the fact that housing prices and mortgage rates are at their lowest levels in years, many potential buyers are sitting on the sidelines, not wanting to take the plunge of purchasing a home in an uncertain economy. What steps can sellers take to increase the chances that their home will be sold?

While homes that need fixing up are often considered great deals, such homes are less appealing to potential buyers when lenders make it difficult to borrow money. After years of lax lending practices, many lenders are now following stringent rules and making borrowing money difficult as a result. While potential buyers may be able to find a home at a low price and a mortgage at a low rate, if they wish to purchase a home that’s a fixer-upper, they may not be able to borrow the money to make the needed repairs. This could dissuade many people from buying homes that need work.

By making minor repairs and upgrades to their home themselves, sellers may be able to attract more buyers and have a better chance of selling their home. First impressions matter, and curbside appeal is a major factor in real estate. Thus, one the front yard is the first place a seller should focus on to improve their home’s appeal. A garden hose reel is an inexpensive and effective way to make a yard look more polished by reducing clutter and adding charm. Purchasing a decorative garden hose reel made of weather- and rust-resistant material is a simple and lasting step to improve a yard’s appearance. Other outdoor storage options include storage benches. Storage benches at once provide patio seating and a place to keep garden tools.

If space permits, adding an outbuilding such as a storage shed in the back yard is another option. Storage unit rentals are a growing business because so many people have so many possessions; increasing the amount of storage a home has is a valuable addition that potential buyers will notice. Mounting a second garden hose reel on the side of an outbuilding can make gardening and yard work more convenient by providing easier access to the front and back yards individually. Buyers consider what daily life would be like in each home they consider, and ample storage space and convenience are highly desirable.

In short, selling a home in a recession is never an easy task. But by taking steps to improve the appearance of their home and ensuring that minor repairs and upgrades are taken care of, sellers can improve the chances of their home being sold.

About the author: Jon Bassfarm is an Internet content writer who enjoys researching and writing about many subjects including garden hose reel and landscaping.

Make Van Gogh Proud: Grow Some Sunflowers!

Perhaps their brilliant yellow coloring inspired him. Their intricately constructed heads containing 1,000 to 2,000 conjoined individual flowers might have provoked his attention to and eye for detail. Could it have been their sunny disposition, so diametrically opposed to his constant state of melancholy? Whatever the reason, Vincent Van Gogh was inspired to paint twelve canvases displaying their likeness, as well as surrounding himself with the plants for most of his short adult life. The beauty and lush color of the sunflower is undeniable. Their rapid growth and beauty will add depth and majesty to your home garden should you endeavor to grow them.

Sunflowers are indigenous plants to North America having provided food and oil to the continent’s native population for centuries before the first Europeans arrived. Sunflower seeds are used to make the sunflower oil we often use in cooking, are a main ingredient in most commercial birdseed, and are delicious and nutritious for healthier snacking. If you are an avid bird watcher, sunflowers will attract more winged creatures to your yard than ever before, so be forewarned, if you’re not! One of the most fascinating facts about sunflowers is their tracking of the sun, known as heliotropism; if you took a time-lapse photo series of the plants, you would notice their “faces” turn throughout the day to gather the sun’s rays as the sun changes positions across the sky.

As with most flowers, richness of soil is important to a sunflower’s growth, but you will enjoy success with clay-like or sand-like soil as long as it drains well, allowing for no standing water to well within. As “sun” is part of their name, it makes perfect sense that optimum positioning in your yard or garden would allow them to capture all-day sun, as is their want. Sunflowers do best if grown in a pot at first, making it easier for germination as soil temperature can be more easily maintained at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Leaves will appear quickly, and when the second leaves do, make sure to fertilize the pots, keeping them in a sunny spot. After several weeks of fertilizing weekly, the plants should now be large enough to transplant to your garden. Making sure to find a sunny, mostly windless spot, dig a hole for each plant that is one and a half times the size of their pot, while keeping each hole at least a foot from the next. Taking care to keep precious root systems intact, place each flower in its hole and fill with soil, patting it down gently. Water from your hose reel should be applied gently, so regulate the flow as not to displace any of the soil from around each plant. By keeping the soil moist, you will encourage quick growth. Because a sunflower’s cycle is so rapid, you will have fully mature plants within 3 months, and be able to enjoy them as they shoot ever higher. Most plants grow to between eight and twelve feet tall. With care, your sunflowers will last all summer, providing nutrition for your local bird population as well as beauty for your viewing pleasure.

About the author: Jon Bassfarm is an Internet content writer who enjoys researching and writing about many subjects including hose reel, landscaping, and much more.

Growing Pumpkins With Your Children for Halloween and Holiday Pies

Pumpkins are an excellent, hardy member of the squash family and grow in all sorts of shapes and sizes. You might envision a pumpkin for Halloween only, but pumpkins can be a decorative part of your garden’s landscape throughout their growing season. Decorative pumpkins make a beautiful addition to your holiday table and of course, in the favorite dessert, pumpkin pie. Instead of visiting your local pumpkin patch and buying your pumpkins by the pound, you might be surprised to know just how easy growing your own pumpkins can be. Growing pumpkins can be an excellent opportunity to introduce even the youngest of children to gardening and the occasion of enjoying the priceless smiles on their faces when harvest time comes will be irreplaceable!


The first thing to do is scout out your spot for planting. A large plot is unnecessary, and it really doesn’t even need to be flat. As aforementioned, pumpkins are extremely hardy and will take root in most types of soil provided they get the attention they need, water-wise, from your hose reel. A pumpkin requires diligent waterings, daily, and this is something that the kids will love doing. Something to keep in mind when choosing your spot is that pumpkins do grow quickly and spread; they share areas well with other plants, and will make their own way if allowed to. If you are worried about specific plants being overrun by your pumpkins, you might do well to afford your pumpkins their own special spot.

After choosing where you’d like to plant them, your next stop is running over to your local garden shop to get the seeds. After choosing the variety of pumpkin you’d like to grow (there really is quite a variety), it’s time to work the soil a bit. Believe me, while your kids are young, take advantage of the fact that they like to dig in the dirt. They will help you turn that soil over in no time. Your growth will be more successful if you enrich the soil with nitrogen rich compost or fertilizer, so by all means, work that into your soil as well. Now, give your kids the seeds and instruct them to place them in water for 24 hours. This helps jumpstart the seeds’ growth by making their outer shells softer and quicker to sprout. The next day, let your children plant each seed, a few inches apart in your small (or large) patch. Make sure you remind your children to water their plants daily, as pumpkins do demand a large amount of water to grow successfully. To allow your plants to grow fruit, you will need to grab a small paintbrush and pollinate your flowers by carrying pollen from one flower to the next. Bees just might do this, but depending on your geographical area, you might not be able to rely on a squash bee to get the job done. This will be fun for the kiddos too! Then, there is nothing left to do but water them, and watch them grow.

About the author: Jon Bassfarm is an Internet content writer who enjoys researching and writing about many subjects including hose reel, landscaping, and much more.

Moving an Established Bush Successfully

If you’ve just moved into a new house or perhaps just want to change up your property’s landscape a bit due to new acquisitions, there may come a time when you would like to transplant established bushes and other foliage to other parts of your yard. Moving an established plant can be extremely tricky depending on the age of the plant, the extensiveness of its entrenchment, and the size of its root ball. Before even entertaining the idea of a move, it is essential to make sure the proposed new location will be as advantageous (or more advantageous) for the health and prosperous growth as the cozy spot it will be leaving. Make sure there is ample shade, ample sunlight, that adequate room exists for the plant as it grows, and that the new spot possesses the most hospitable soil to the particular plant’s liking. Once these issues have been resolved, it is time to get ready for the move itself.

The largest concern of moving an established planting is taking care not to damage too many of the feeder roots that do most of the nutrient, water, and oxygen absorption necessary for plant health. Depending on the size of the bush, plan on digging around the bottom quite a bit larger in order to help preserve the most of the feeder roots as possible, as this will help the bush adapt nicely and quickly to its new location. To be safe, it is best to dig around the circumference of the entire plant; depending on its size this could be three feet in diameter, so bring your muscles (or someone else’s) with you! With this increased hole size, you have a better chance of protecting the entire root ball, so carefully dig, observing the root ball as it is becomes visible. Once the entire root ball is exposed, water it thoroughly with water from your garden hose reel to help ensure it remains intact while you continue to dig around it. Once the root ball is completely uncovered, wrap it gingerly with burlap to ensure cohesion before trying to lift plant and ball to transport it to the new site. When lifting the entire plant into your awaiting wheelbarrow, it is essential to cradle the root ball carefully, ensuring it does not crack or break as this can surely mean death for your precious plant.

Making sure the new hole is the same size as the one your plant has just vacated, settle your plant within and replace the soil moved for its making. Water it thoroughly immediately and mulch the surrounding area. It is essential to be extremely diligent with weekly waterings throughout this crucial first year post-transplant. Check the soil often to make sure you are applying enough water to satisfy new growth. Your bush will soon take hold to its new environment, and adjust accordingly so you are able to enjoy it for many years to come.

About the author: Jon Bassfarm is an Internet content writer who enjoys researching and writing about many subjects including garden hose reel, landscaping, and much more.

Prune Your Vines to Stimulate Growth

While climbing vines do their part to add layers and depth to the landscape of your yard and garden, they do demand attention at certain times of the year, to keep them growing healthily and vigorously. Whether your vines are climbing an old fence, the handrails of your front porch, or an erected trellis in a beautiful garden bower, certain sections of these vines must be snipped and pruned in order for the healthy areas to continue with their growth, beautifying your garden space.

Make sure you have the proper tools on hand before you begin pruning your climbers. Pruning clippers/shears must be extra sharp in order to do their job. Dull shears can actually damage your vines by leaving jagged cuts or splintering branches instead of providing the cleanest of cuts. Dully cut branches are not only less attractive, while these cuts are healing, they are easy prey for insect infestation or disease. Late winter, after the last snow and frost, is the best time to prune many of your hardiest vines such as various types of clematis, grapes, wisteria, and roses. If you are planning on tackling your roses, of course a pair of thick gloves should be on your shopping list as well.

With all climbers, you need to prune and cut back the dead or dying areas in order to keep new growth growing. If this is your first attempt at pruning, you should not be afraid. Hardy climbers such as your grapes can take beginners’ mistakes and still rebound, forming new growth come spring. You will get your exercise pruning your grapes back as experts suggest that nearly 90% of the plant should be cut away in late winter to stimulate the new growth of the upcoming season, so pace yourself! Make deliberate cuts with each attempt, taking care to leave the healthiest buds alone, cutting right above them on your wisteria or clematis. Thinning these plants of the dead branches and ratty stragglers can help them retain their shape while also increasing your chances for more blooms in the spring, so be diligent. As always, if any branches or buds appear infected with a pest or disease, cut them back immediately in hopes of stopping the unsightly infections from spreading throughout the plant. When pruning, you can think of yourself as doctor and stylist in one, making sure your plants remain healthy while shaping and training them as you desire.

Most vines and hardy climbers require a pruning session only once a year in order to maintain their growth throughout the seasons. As always, it is extremely helpful to mulch and fertilize your valued plants, especially after pruning in order to quickly supply the new growth with the necessary nutrients. An attentive showering of water from your garden hose reel after mulching provides the required water, motivating growth in burgeoning sections. With this once a year attention, you can make sure your vines grow their best and beautify your lawn and garden year round.

About the author: Jon Bassfarm is an Internet content writer who enjoys researching and writing about many subjects including garden hose reel, landscaping, and much more.

Caring for Your Compost So it Benefits Your Lawn

Keeping your lawn its greenest and continuously growing at its peak potential doesn’t happen overnight. Diligent waterings from your hose reel are excellent, but your lawn may demand more, depending on the quality and type of soil that’s underneath the surface. Composting is an excellent and environmentally friendly option, but you must remember, your compost need its own attention as well, so that it can generate all the growth-giving properties that you desire.

The location of your compost pile or bin is something that should be considered. It should be placed appropriately in your lawn so that any runoff that may occur can be beneficial in and of itself. If your lawn is sloping, make sure to place your compost pile or bin at or near the top of the slope so its runoff can be utilized advantageously. A bin to store your compost is not necessary, but is helpful in keeping it contained, though a simple pile will do the job as well.

The materials you place in your compost pile should be organic, that is, plant-based materials. Meat waste can be dangerous as it can attract local wildlife. It is best to use lawn clippings, leaves, vines, and other plant refuse, as well as kitchen waste such as vegetable peelings, coffee grounds, eggshells, and the like. The more finely crushed all of these items are, the more quickly they can be broken down within your compost pile, and their advantageous nutrients applied to your lawn.

After your pile location is established and beginning organic materials assembled, heap them together with a little soil and manure to get the nitrogen and microorganisms necessary to start the process. Rather than a mountainous pile with the middle protruding upwards, attempt to let the outer parts of your pile be highest, allowing for water seepage from the outside in. Water from your hose reel should now be applied, making the pile moist, but not overly wet. Within only a few days, the microorganisms will begin doing their job and, combined with the nitrogen and plant material, the pile will begin to heat up. If heat is not being generated, fresh lawn clippings and water should be applied to add more nitrogen and hydration. If an ammonia smell is detected, use your pitchfork to aerate the pile somewhat to allow for equal oxygen distribution. The pile should be turned at least once a month to continue the process of decomposition, and if the materials involved are finely crushed, application of viable compost to your lawn can happen in as little as two months.

Composting is an easy way to add valuable nutrients to your lawn while doing your part as well to help keep the size of your city or county’s landfills from unnecessarily growing.

About the author: Jon Bassfarm is an Internet content writer who enjoys researching and writing about many subjects including hose reel and landscaping.

Getting Rid of the Pesky Slugs that Terrorize Your Garden Organically, Without Harming Them

Have you ever gone out to admire your beautifully growing garden and found yourself horrified by holes covering the green leaves and a silver, tell-tale trail left behind? Of course, the silvery trail lets you know that your garden has been violated by the slimiest, most disgusting, plant-damaging pests around, slugs, and they will undoubtedly return now that they have found your amply set green table of garden foliage goodness to feed their repulsive bellies with. The question is, of course, how do you make sure the next visit is their very last? You are certainly not growing your beautiful garden for their benefit and need to make sure they do not continue wrecking havoc on your lovely green space.

Slugs do their worst at night, because their slimy wet skin is delicate and sunlight can dry them out easily. Because of this, waterings in the late evening, though assuring penetration into your garden by the water, are a “no-no” when it comes to slugs as it only attracts them more. Also, it is better that you attach a “soaker” hose nozzle to your hose reel as it allows you to have better control of exactly where your water goes. In this manner, you can be sure not to leave little puddles of water in unnoticed places where slugs tend to congregate.

While you could choose from quite a few chemical solutions available on the market, it is more environmentally conscious to try the organic routes initially. It is good to remember the natural predators of slugs, for they are many. Birds, salamanders, and frogs love to have their fill of slugs for dinner. Birds are easily attracted to your garden; spread some nice birdseed to attract the local starling population. They will be more than happy to pick off those pesky fellers, one by one. If the birdies don’t do the trick, keep in mind just how delicate those slimy suckers’ bellies are. Slugs try and protect their vulnerable undersides out of necessity. Try littering the area surrounding your flowerbeds and gardens with gritty substances like sand or eggshells. Slugs will turn the other way rather than cross a line that could puncture their fragile epidermis. This will deter them, forcing them to head to the neighbors’ yards in search of sustenance.

By following these few suggestions, it will be possible to protect your garden, organically, from the belly-bound predators, allowing your flowers and plants to prosper, beautifying your home and yard all season long.

About the author: Jon Bassfarm is an Internet content writer who enjoys researching and writing about many subjects including hose reel and landscaping.